You know what’s worse than carrying a six-pound jug of gas on your hip? Carrying two of them.  I know my riding buddies (particularly the one who puts together the awesome rides) are tired of hearing it, but c’mon strapping a gallon of gas to your waist is a drag – and sometimes, I still have to carry two. It’s a requirement for the super remote rides we usually go on in order to get deep into the backcountry – and back out again. I’d like to say the three-gallon IMS tank solved that issue for me, but really, a larger than stock tank is already imperative for the type of riding I do – plus a lil extra when the mileage calls for it. 

Essential Dirt Bike Upgrades For Essential Recreation Part 1 – Protecting Your Investment

IMS has been around for nearly 50 years manufacturing and retailing motorcycle parts. These days IMS is mostly known for its larger than stock fuel tanks (which are available for a number of brands and models) with optional dry break receivers (for racing), footpegs, and shift levers. For the 2022 KTM 500 EXC-F, IMS offers two capacities of its rotationally-molded crosslinked polyethylene fuel tanks: 3 and 4.5 gallons – both are available in black or natural colors. 

Since I already expressed my disdain about carrying gas in addition to the 3-gallon tank, you might be wondering why I didn’t opt for the larger 4.5-gallon version. I find the smaller option to provide the best capacity-to-performance ratio. I can hardly tell the difference between the stock 2.25-gallon tank versus the 3-gallon IMS one when riding. The 4.5 is much larger all around and extends out past the shrouds on either side. In addition to the size and extra weight, the fuel sloshing back and forth through the tank can create a slide hammer-like effect, which is most prominent at anything other than low or topped up fuel levels. Rather than having to deal with those potential issues, I’d rather carry gas when the mileage is going to be north of 135 miles between gas stops.

Installation

Installing the IMS tank is a fairly straightforward affair. One of the few places that can sometimes cause frustration during a tank swap is reinstalling the fuel pump (if your bike is fuel injected, obviously). I’ve found that running a length of wire through the tank and attaching it to the fuel pump’s threads allows it to be pulled through the tank and out the bottom fairly easily (IMS also suggests this in its installation instructions).

Once I had the fuel pump securely mounted, the tank and shrouds bolted back in place just as they did with the stock units (the Enduro Engineering radiator guards didn’t cause any issues either). The Seat Concepts seat, however, required a bit more coaxing to get back into place.

The only potential issue I found while installing the IMS fuel tank was that the fuel line was now routed in such a way that it sat against the cylinder wall. It’s great that it isn’t in a position to potentially get snagged on something while riding in tight situations, but the heat from the cylinder was a cause of concern. IMS suggests using an upgraded billet KTM factory fuel pump connector (the stock connector is plastic) to resolve this issue. Since I was doing this install just before a trip, I wasn’t going to have time to wait for parts. Instead, I clamped a piece of high-temp insulative material to the hose to give it some additional protection.

Trail testing

What better way is there to test the tank than heading out into the vast expanses of the southwestern U.S. for nearly 800 miles? Well, of course there are plenty of things that could go wrong, but I’m happy to report that it has worked just as a fuel tank should – it holds gas. 

The design of the IMS tank doesn’t feel any wider than stock between the knees, and although it does come up higher near the cap, It hasn’t hindered my riding in any way. This is totally subjective, but I also think the newer IMS tanks look more stylish than the older versions, and so far, I haven’t had any issues with discoloration or staining from ground in terra. 

My mileage generally hovers around 45 mpg with the 500 EXC-F, so 135 miles of range is what I typically get out of the IMS tank. During my first dual-sport ride with the new tank, three of our five days were pushing 180 miles which meant I still had to carry gas, but I couldn’t have done the trip without the larger fuel tank. 

Again, for me, the three-gallon IMS fuel tank sits at the right combination of range and performance. I have had Acerbis and IMS tanks on different bikes over the years, and for some time, I preferred Acerbis simply because they looked nicer to me. To date, I haven’t had issues with tanks from either brand. With a more modern look and the fact that IMS is a California-based company, you’d be hard pressed to find a reason not to consider their products if you’re looking to increase your range.

Check price for the IMS Fuel Tank here

Additional Resources

• Essential Dirt Bike Upgrades For Essential Recreation Part 1 – Protecting Your Investment
• MO Touring: Building A Lightweight Adventure Bike
• The Infamous Nevada Itinerary
• Best Off-Road Gas Tanks

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The post Essential Dirt Bike Upgrades For Essential Recreation Part 2 – Making the Mileage appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

I guess manufacturers know that you’re going to swap on aftermarket parts from the get go, but it doesn’t make it any less annoying that machines like KTM’s 500 EXC-F, which retails for $12,549, don’t come with even the most basic engine protection. In the rocky terrain I find myself riding in the western U.S., a skid plate is an essential worker. But that’s not the only bit of protection I like to get my machines outfitted with before hitting the trail. We already mentioned the purchase price of a new pumpkin, so spending a few more dollars to protect components before they have the chance to get smashed seems like a worthwhile investment.

Essential Dirt Bike Upgrades For Essential Recreation Part 2 – Making the Mileage

For me, and the type of riding I like to do with a dual-sport bike (almost no pavement with plenty of technical riding), a skid plate, rear disc guard, wrap-around handguards, and radiator guards pretty much sets up a new bike for withstanding some serious abuse. Thankfully, there is a company making all of that here in the States that I’ve relied on to protect my dirt bikes for years now: Enduro Engineering. 

Based in a small Michigan city with a population less than 10,000, Enduro Engineering has been headed up by owner Alan Randt since the late 80’s. Alan’s name may sound familiar to those in off-road racing circles, not only because of his own accomplishments in racing, but also because he now heads up the NEPG-AMA National Enduro series. Randt bought the fledgling Enduro Engineering in 1984 and kept it going while continuing to race and run a dealership. In the 90’s things ramped up significantly for Enduro Engineering as it began making products for the likes of Moose Racing and MSR while doubling down in development and production of its own products as well.  

Today, Enduro Engineering offers a myriad of components for protecting enduro riders’ machines, parts to make them work better, a carefully curated selection of parts from other brands, and even suspension services for those looking to have their setup refined. EE offers something for everyone, from the casual trail rider, to sponsoring the Factory Beta USA team and supporting hundreds of other racers throughout the years.

With all that said, Enduro Engineering is a brand I’ve relied on to protect my machines from myself for many years, and with the significant racing history to help them develop components, I feel confident in recommending their product. Let’s have a look at what I’d consider some essential protection to install before getting started down the trail.

Enduro Engineering Extreme Skidplate

Enduro Engineering’s Extreme Skidplate is available for KTM, Husqvarna, GasGas, Beta, and Sherco motorcycles. This covers everything from motocross bikes to off-road racing machines, and plated dual-sports. The company’s standard skidplate, which doesn’t wrap quite as far up around the motor, can be had for many other brands including Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha as well as the aforementioned OEMs.

As mentioned previously, the Extreme skidplate is based on EE’s standard skidplate, the only difference being the additional “wings” that come up higher on each side to better protect the engine. The aluminum design covers the frame rails and is angled slightly on the outer edge of the rails to protect footpeg mounts and give you a better chance of glancing off of obstacles. 

As you can also see in some of the photos, EE includes cut-outs for accessing drain plugs for oil changes, but on the Extreme version, it’s going to be kind of a pain (if it’s possible at all, I haven’t tried) to replace the oil filter. So, it’s more likely that you’ll need to drop the skidplate for oil changes. The standard plate shouldn’t have any issue staying put during oil changes. For me, I’d rather have the extra protection, and since the skidplate is easy to remove and reinstall, I’m fine with doing it. Plus, I always tend to make more of a mess with my oil changes than I mean to. 

Installation is simple with a hook in the rear securing the back of the skidplate to the frame’s crossmember and two bolts up front securing the plate to the frame. Before you mount up the skidplate, EE provides a long strip of adhesive backed foam to run along the frame rails where the skidplate covers. This ensures you won’t have any metal on metal rattling should you take a hit hard enough to cause the metal to touch. The front of the plate can be secured with the supplied crossmember fitting on the back side of the upper frame rails. The EXC line has pre-drilled and tapped holes that you’re able to use the supplied longer bolts for. I used both. And it’s definitely not because I put it all together before realizing it was one or the other…

Overall, I really like the extra protection that the Extreme model gives, particularly because I use my dual-sports primarily for long trips that can have some fairly technical riding interspersed in the middle of BFE – the last place you want to have an issue. Given my experience (see: abuse) with other Enduro Engineering skidplates, I have no reason to think this won’t continue to offer protection for many thousands of miles. 

Shop for the Enduro Engineering Extreme Skidplate here

Enduro Engineering Evolution 2 Handguards

Handguards are like buttholes, everyone’s got one…er, wait.. Opinions, those are like buttholes. Whatever the case, I prefer wrap-around style handguards. That’s probably because it wasn’t that long ago that I was falling over a lot, and now, well, I still fall over, just not quite as much. In the process of learning how to stay vertical, I lost a handful of levers. While I have still managed to break levers with wrap around style handguards, most were with the “flag” type that are only connected to the handlebar on the inboard side. 

Enduro Engineering’s Evolution 2 debris deflectors consist of a fairly basic aluminum bar that attaches at the end of the grip (the grip and throttle tube must be drilled/cut out) with a taper lock and then to the company’s specialized bar clamps toward the middle of the handlebar. The clamps themselves are manufactured to provide more room for master cylinders and lines to be routed over them. I’ve had experience with other brand’s bar clamps that have been difficult to set up because they did not offer the u-shape of EE’s clamps.

Again, install is as easy as it looks, drilling out the grips is probably the hardest part. Thanks to the KTM’s ODI grips that are made to easily have the ends punched out, even that was a straightforward job. If you want to look at the instructions, EE provides detailed ones with full color pictures and everything. 

The plastic EVO2 deflectors are sold separately for $25 per pair and install easily with two bolts into the threaded holes in the aluminum bar. So, if you’ve got your deflectors all scuffed from learning how to not fall over, swapping in a new set will freshen up the look at a low price. Fitment of the Evolution 2 handguards is not model specific, as EE has clamps and taper locks to fit motorcycles with ⅞-inch or 1-⅛ inch handlebars. 

Thankfully, I’ve managed to keep the bike upright so far while running the Evolution handguards from EE, but I’ll try harder next time we’re out.

Shop for the Enduro Engineering Evolution 2 Handguards here

Enduro Engineering Billet Radiator Guards

Ask ol’ Brascannons how easy it is to tip over and crack a radiator (on your coworker’s personal motorcycle). I’ve busted my fair share out in the rocky SoCal terrain. Whether toppling over, or simply smashing the lower portion on an ill placed rock, cracking your radiator is fairly easy. Heck, the one Brasfield managed to smash was supposed to be a “heavy-duty” racing type. [Sigh… – EB]

Although replacing a radiator isn’t terribly difficult, I’d rather not have to do it (even when my boss pays for the replacement). Swapping the OE plastic louvers for the Enduro Engineering guards is another easy process. EE’s website claims less than four minutes is needed for both sides. I spent a little longer than that because I wasn’t in a hurry, but not much. One point to note – something you should do with any install really – make sure to hand-tighten the bolts into the guards initially to prevent cross threading.

The Enduro Engineering billet radiator guards are somewhat new from the company and offer protection to the front, bottom (to an extent), and side, whereas a standard radiator brace only protects from side impacts. Thankfully, most of my riding is in the southwest where packing up with mud isn’t an issue, so I can’t speak to that potential, but blocking air is not something that I really want to do since I end up riding in fairly hot temps. It seems EE has done its best to balance protection and airflow. Fitment of this new style guard is available for select KTM/Husqvarna/GasGas, Beta, Sherco, and Yamaha models.

The guards are made of 3/16-inch aluminum with the sides measuring up to almost an inch at their thickest point and are built with a curve on the outer edge to allow for a bit of cushion should you have an impact hard enough to actually cause them to bend in. The nicely routed holes for airflow look good and match the skidplate and brake disc guard in design (if you care about such things). The front of the guard stays just over a half-inch from the front of the radiator and uses two rubber bumpers in the corner to damp noise should it manage to get bent in. The lower portion of the guard extends ¼-inch below the bottom of the radiator.

For those wondering if the guards cause the shrouds to stick out further, my guess is they may be protruding up to 1/16 of an inch further than stock, so it’s negligible.

There is one thing to note with the EXC-F model these were installed on. Because this is a street-legal motorcycle, it has a closed loop evaporative canister system to keep gas and its fumes within the motorcycle at all times. Two of the hoses for this system route between the frame and the radiator. When these guards are installed normally, it pinches those hoses pretty tight, almost to the point of clamping them off entirely (in my install). If you were to block airflow through those hoses completely, at the extreme end, you run the risk of collapsing or inflating your fuel tank. If air can still pass through, you will likely be fine, but routing them up and over has also been done, I’m told. Of course, if you’re some kind of criminal who plans to remove the evaporative system anyway, this doesn’t really matter. 

To put it bluntly, these guards are Stout. I hope that I don’t manage to destroy them, because there’s a good chance I’ll have destroyed myself in the process. 

Shop for the Enduro Engineering Billet Radiator Guards here

Enduro Engineering Rear Disc Guard

The rear disc guard is the only Enduro Engineering part here that I looked up a Youtube video to make sure I did everything correctly. Yes, they include instructions with color photography, but not only am I a man, I’m also a millennial. Turns out they made their own Youtube video of the installation too. Score! In the video, EE employee Logan walks you through the procedure on a Husqvarna (which could be interchanged with a GasGas or KTM with the same rear Brembo caliper). If everything included in this article was easy in terms of installation, the rear disc guard gets an easy +, meaning it takes a little more work and understanding than simply threading a bolt into a hole. Still, not a difficult thing to do.

If you’ve changed your brake pads, you’ll be able to handle this. The EE unit replaces the entire OEM brake carrier with a shiny billet aluminum one that the protective fin is attached to (replacement fins can be purchased if you thrash the original). The fin itself is about ½-inch thick and extends past the leading edge and below the rotor by about ½-inch also. 

I opted only for the rear disc guard as it’s harder to keep track of while riding than the front, and keeping unsprung mass to a minimum on either wheel is typically the goal. 

Shop for the Enduro Engineering Rear Disc Guard here

Conclusion

As you’ve probably put together by now, all of these protective bits are easy to install and offer loads more protection than any bike comes with off of the showroom floor. After spending thousands of dollars on a dirt bike or dual-sport, throwing $500 (retail price for everything included in this article is $516) at it in protection seems like a smart investment to me, as OEM parts are expensive and, these days, hard to come by. I waited to ride this 500 EXC-F until all of these parts were installed just to make sure I wouldn’t be kicking myself if something happened. 

Check out the full line of goods at EnduroEng.com

The astute reader may have noticed that this article is the beginning of a series of ongoing stories where I share my choices and reasons for building out a dual-sport motorcycle the way I do, for the kind of riding I plan on using it for. Like a good cult leader, I’m not putting an end date or a cap as to how many of these there will be, but trust that I’ll be continuing to test these products for the duration and will update the articles with any failures or new found observations found on the trail. Stay tuned.

Additional Resources

• EZ ADV Upgrades: The Ever-Present Hunt For Traction
• EZ ADV Upgrades: In Darkness, Let There Be Light
• EZ ADV Upgrades: Helping The Katoom Breathe Freer And Cleaner
• EZ ADV Upgrades: Some Of The Cheapest Insurance You Can Buy

We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews. Learn more about how this works.

The post Essential Dirt Bike Upgrades for Essential Recreation Part 1 – Protecting Your Investment appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

In recent years, motorcycles like the 2021 Kawasaki KLX300 have become increasingly more popular, not only due to its small displacement, but also because it gives riders the versatility of having a mount that’s street legal while being able to handle duties in the dirt without being too intimidating. The KLX update couldn’t come at a better time for folks interested in dual-sport motorcycles. In a world ravaged by COVID-induced change, motorcycling – particularly the off-road segment – has enjoyed a welcome surge of interest for those looking for a new way to fill their time while still maintaining a safe distance from their fellow humans. 

The off-road, adventure, and dual-sport segments have been showing growth even before the world was tossed into a tailspin by the pandemic. It’s human nature to want to explore the unknown and dual-sport motorcycles provide the best mix of off-road capability and on-road legality. 

Not only has the KLX received a boost in displacement, Kawasaki also brought a new model to the line with the 2021 KLX300SM. Made up of most of the same components, the 300SM focuses on street performance with choice revisions to make it an excellent runabout that is a bushel of fun on the tightest of twisty roads, but more on that another time. For now, let us focus on the KLX300 dual-sport.

What’s new with the KLX300?

For those familiar with Kawasaki’s dual-sport line, the KLX namesake is a familiar one. Sure, certain models have gone on sabbatical throughout the years, but some iteration has been around since 1979 when the three letters were first used to denote Kawi’s trail bikes back in the day. The 2021 KLX300 should remind you a lot of the outgoing 250 because it is basically the same motorcycle. The boost in displacement is essentially the only real change, but it’s a change that makes an obvious improvement in performance. 

Stepping up from the 250 to 300 – 292cc, to be exact – we now see the KLX300 using the same power plant from the KLX300R that we reviewed last May. The increase in displacement was achieved by widening the bore 6mm to 78mm. Stroke remains the same at 61.2mm. The more aggressive cam profiles of the 300R engine lend a quick-revving nature while the larger displacement and 14/40 final gearing give the KLX300 a decent punch of low-end torque that’s helpful both off-road and around town. That’s not to say that you won’t see the LCD speedometer start to fall flat should you find yourself heading up a long gradual climb, but it gets to 70 mph and stays there without issue. Top speed registered on flat ground was 83 while a face-melting 87 mph was indicated heading downhill. 

Electric start and fuel injection help ease the learning curve for new riders and are a welcome nicety to anyone who’s spent time without. Kawi tells us the KLX’s cold-blooded nature has been addressed which was apparent on our cool morning start as the bike had no issue firing right up and settling into idle confidently. More than a few riders experienced weak battery issues during our ride caused by leaving the key on at stops, mind you those stops weren’t very long and I hadn’t experienced this issue in other settings. Hopefully, this little niggle was confined to our group of test motorcycles. 

Let’s not forget the one other area aside from graphics that has changed: MSRP. Starting at $5,599 in Kawasaki green, the KLX300 can also be had in Fragment Camo Gray for an extra $200. The hip camo bike also comes blacked out from its swingarm and frame to fork and wheels, giving the murdered out look that the cool kids crave. I did happen to notice that the camo option seemed to scratch easily under my knee braces leaving white scuffs under the graphics. 

Other than that, the KLX is largely the same as the model it replaces. We still have 10.1 inches of suspension travel from the 43mm inverted fork with 16-way adjustable compression damping. The Uni-Trak linkage-type rear suspension has 9.1 inches of travel and is 20-way adjustable for compression and 30-way adjustable for rebound while also offering pre-load adjustment. All of that ends up giving the rider just over 10 inches of ground clearance, though the larger the rider, the less you’ll end up with once geared up and cruising down the trail. Seat height may be an issue for those short of inseam at 35.2 inches, but the light weight and slim hips of the motorcycle make it less intimidating than the numbers on the specsheet would suggest. Kawasaki claims 302 pounds full of juice. 

A 21/18 wheel combo gives riders dozens of options for tire choice, though the Dunlop D605s equipped from the factory provide pretty great traction off-road without feeling ponderous on asphalt. Single rotors front and rear are used with a 250mm disc up front gripped by a dual-piston caliper and a 240mm one in the back squeezed by a single-piston caliper. Initial bite on both can feel a bit touchy if I’m nitpicking, but I try not to because braking power is perfectly adequate for a machine with this amount of power. 

KLX250 riders around the ‘net report anywhere from 50-70 mpg with their bikes so expect somewhere between 100-140 miles of range out of the KLX300’s two-gallon tank as well. This is, of course, as always dependent on the heft of your wrist.

Versatility at a (low) price

As mentioned up top, dual-sport bikes provide a nearly unparalleled level of versatility. Arguably more than any other segment in motorcycling. It is of course, always a trade-off. Adventure bikes are comfortable for touring and can deliver pretty great performance on-road and off. It’s only once you get far to either end of the spectrum that you find their weaknesses on the trail or trying to keep up with your peers on sporty machines (the rider makes the biggest difference here most of the time). Dual-sport motorcycles are much the same.

The KLX300 isn’t a surprising motorcycle. It does exactly what you expect it to and it does it well. The motor is tractable for riding off-road and delivers power in a totally unintimidating way that anyone could be comfortable with. Having adjustable suspension at this price rarely happens and opens the door to a larger swath of riders to feel comfortable on the machine. It’s not rewriting the books on suspension performance, but like the brakes mentioned earlier, it does the job and offers adjustability where many others don’t. For larger riders, it will feel under sprung and for smaller, the opposite, but being able to adjust damping settings will at least help riders get closer to optimum settings before they have to consider swapping springs. 

That said, at stock settings, the bike kept itself tracking straight through whoops sections and gobbled up rocks like a Cadillac. I did bottom both ends under more extreme conditions and managed to whack the bottom of the tiny skid plate, but overall, I think the stock setup is commendable. 

At 5’8” I didn’t have an issue with seat height or riding whilst sat, but when standing off-road I found myself wishing the bars were higher. Some handlebar risers should take care of that easily, though. The footpegs are somewhat small, but I didn’t have much issue during our day of trail and street riding. The slimness of the entire bike and relatively low weight made it an easy machine to maneuver through anything we threw at it – also for when the inevitable happens and you need to pick it up. 

All in a day’s ride

Our morning started off brisk. Layers were donned, and then more layers, and probably a buff or two. We took off out of town and jumped on the nearest freeway to transport ourselves to more tranquil and serene surroundings.

On the freeway, the bike gets up to speed with ease, not necessarily quick, but not too slow either. Cruising at 75 isn’t difficult for the KLX300 and it still had a little more to give with me on board. Once we came to a long gradual uphill though, the speedo slowly began to give up miles, settling in around 70 or just under. I was happy to end our short freeway stint, mostly because it was chilly, the bike felt pretty smooth at speed, not busy like one might expect.

Scooting through small towns and backroads on the KLX300 began to illustrate the motorcycle’s intended use. Even the Dunlop D605s held their own on twisty bits of tarmac without squirming much. We peeled off onto a gravel road and kept on truckin’. Small rocky trails on either side of the road offered fun, quick excursions. At speed, trying to traverse bumpy terrain without slowing probably isn’t wise, as you will run out of clearance and suspension travel, but slow things down and you’ll be rewarded with a plush, comfortable ride.

Later in the day, when we got to poke around an OHV park, the motor’s torque was adequate in most conditions, and as long as momentum was maintained, tackling short climbs or long reasonably steep ones was relatively effortless. 

The suspension again showcased its plushness over trails lined with softball to grapefruit-sized rocks and kept tracking straight without deflecting. Again, check your speed and you’ll be fine. If you start trying to hammer through the aforementioned sections or slamming through whoops, you’ll find the bike’s limits quickly.

Keeping a slower pace also allows you to “stop and smell the roses” or in our case while in northern California, listen to the frogs croak in the creek beds and enjoy the cool morning as the sun sifts through gnarled tree branches as you snake between green hills alongside moss-covered boulders continuing down dirt roads. Exploring just to explore and knowing that you probably won’t get yourself in over your head too easily. 

At the end of the trail

For families looking for a bike to share whether its to use around town or around a farm, the KLX300 should be an easy bike to keep in the garage. Not to mention that its dirtbike-style setup means it’ll take a lickin’ and keep on kickin’. Servicing the machine should be a cinch as well and easy for those new to maintaining motorcycles. 

Having a day out riding trails with your friends and exploring is what it’s all about, and being able to run errands around town when you’re not is what makes the KLX300 attractive to many. Our own E-i-C, Brasfield is planning to ride one alongside his daughter as she learns to ride a small dirtbike. It will be a great learning experience for both of them (stay tuned for that heartwarming story). Just another scenario that Kawasaki’s KLX300 is perfectly suited to. 

The post 2021 Kawasaki KLX300 Review – First Rip appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

The 2021 Kawasaki KX250X is essentially the same motorcycle as the ‘21 KX250(F) with a few necessary changes to convert the motocrosser to an off-road racing machine. That’s not a bad thing by any means, particularly because the KX250F just received a major overhaul this year. Since this “new” model marks Kawasaki’s focus on off-road racing – a genre it has had major success in in the past – we couldn’t wait to get our hands on this latest model. 

Way back in the middle of 2019, we tested Honda and Yamaha’s cross-country 250s – both of which are also heavily based on their corresponding motocross models. These off-road machines are not only weapons for off-road racing, but also exciting performance-focused trail bikes. Now that Kawasaki has a new entry into the XC segment, we were excited to see how the KX250X would stack up to others in the field. 

What turns an F into an X?

In Kawasaki’s eyes, not a lot. Just the essentials. The changes consist of a 21/18-inch wheel combo (instead of the standard 21/19 for motocrossers) which is fitted with off-road specific rubber, revised suspension, an extra tooth on the rear sprocket, a plastic skid plate and rear rotor guard, and a handy, convenient side stand for when you can’t find anything to lean your bike against. 

The KX250X’s 21/18-inch wheel combo is wrapped in Dunlop’s standard off-road rubber – the Geomax AT81. These tires are developed specifically for use in off-road environments which can require a more rugged tire as well as extra sidewall height. This acts as the motorcycle’s first line of suspension when the rubber meets the trail. The extra sidewall height commonly found on 18-inch tires helps an off-road motorcycle to be more compliant by offering more flex than a lower profile MX-style tire. 

Kawasaki is in its second year of using KYB suspension on its KX250, and we see the same components used on the X model. Adjustments have been made to soften up the suspension, with the 48mm coil-spring fork going one spring rate softer (4.7 N/mm) and getting dedicated valving. The shock uses the same Uni-Trak rear suspension link as well as spring rate at 54N/mm, although valving is said to be tuned for off-road environments. The KYB shock features a 50mm shock body and 16mm shaft. Kashima coatings are used on both ends for durability. 

The 51-tooth rear sprocket helps the 250X feel torquier and is more resistant to stalling when riding through technical slower terrain. The KX250X retains the close-ratio five-speed gearbox from the motocross model. 

Other than the aforementioned, Kawi finished the X off with a plastic skid plate fitted between the lower frame rails, a plastic guard for the water pump and rear rotor, and a kickstand. While the plastic bits are actually more robust than one might initially think, it’s probably best to replace them before bashing your way through a boulder field. 

2021 KX250 Platform

We’d be doing Kawasaki a disservice if we didn’t discuss the fairly substantial overhaul that the bike received for 2021. At Motorcycle.com, we haven’t historically covered bikes of the off-road or MX persuasion, at least not thoroughly and consecutively due to the fact that all of the other guys around here are scared to get their boots dirty. We don’t have a review of the ‘21 motocrosser to link to, so I’ll include below the list of items that culminate in a thoroughly revised motorcycle for the 2021 model year.

The 250 motor received updates in 2017 as well as revisions in 2020. The 2021 motor continues the trend with a number of new features. First off – and most importantly to some – Kawasaki’s 250 finally joins the rest of the class with the magic button powered by a lightweight lithium-ion battery. Starting is also made easy by the automatic centrifugal decompression system on the exhaust cam which lifts one of the exhaust valves when starting. 

With the addition of lighter finger-follower valve actuation in 2020, Kawasaki has continued to increase power output with the latest model while also increasing the rev-limit to 14,500. The engine features a 14.1:1 compression ratio with a 78mm bore and 52.2mm stroke. Titanium intake (32mm) and exhaust (26.5mm) valves are used, adding lightness to the system. DLC coatings protect against wear.

The cylinder itself is offset 3mm forward, while plateau honing on the bore results in a smooth surface with good oil retention. A downdraft intake design is used to efficiently pull in air while the 44mm throttle body aids in high-rpm performance. 

The new hydraulic clutch system uses a single coned-disc spring rather than the traditional multi coil spring system. Kawasaki tells us this contributes to lighter clutch actuation while also providing better heat dissipation, reducing clutch fade. Revised clutch plates and materials also aid in heat resistance as well as reducing drag when the clutch is pulled in. 

The KX250 also comes with three couplers that can be used to change the fuel map. Black, green, and white couplers represent the least to most aggressive maps in that order. Should you pop for the accessory KX FI Calibration kit, you can further alter those map settings to your liking.

Moving on to the chassis, the KX250 uses a KX450-derived frame with small changes to better suit it to the KX250. The lightweight aluminum perimeter frame is constructed from extruded, forged, and cast pieces. This is said to offer the right balance of frame rigidity to deliver light handling and traction. The swingarm also borrows heavily from the 450 design. 

As mentioned before, KYB suspension is used throughout with specific settings for the motocross and XC models. 

Braking supplies the petal-type discs with a 270mm rotor up front and a 240mm in the rear. Nissin handles the rest of the braking responsibilities with the two-piston front caliper and single-piston rear unit as well as fore and aft master cylinders. 

Adjustable ergonomics can be found throughout including a four-position adjustable 1-⅛-inch Renthal Fatbar and two-position adjustable footpegs. The flatter design at the top of the fuel tank allows riders to more easily move as far forward as they wish, unencumbered. Adding to the slim feeling of the bike overall are the single-piece radiator shrouds which help keep the motorcycle as narrow as possible. 

The X Factor

Back to the KX250X. So, what’s it like to ride? Thrilling. Exciting. Titillating. Generally, a lot of fun. Really, the KX250X has all of its motocross sibling’s tendencies and brings with it the necessary accouterment for off-road racing – except handguards (sigh). The changes Kawasaki made to the KX250 are the first things folks looking to race GNCCs or WORCs are going to do – and for only $100 over the KX250’s MSRP. It would cost plenty more than that to make the modifications yourself.

Are you going to have to start dumping cash into it once you get it off of the showroom floor? I certainly don’t think so. Unless maybe you’re racing near the top of your class in the previously mentioned series or are abnormally big or small. 

I spent three days in the middle of the CA desert living in a wigwam doing nothing but peyote and riding the KX250X with no human interaction of any kind. I shat in foxholes, hunted jackrabbits for sustenance, and blasted through the desert fully nude atop the green motorcycle. It seemed like a fitting way to say farewell to the raging dumpster fire that was 2020 while welcoming the warmth from 2021’s nearly instant spontaneous combustion.  

After those days of back-to-back testing in everything from tight technical rock crawling to flowing singletrack and high-speed sand washes, I came away slightly surprised by how well the Kawi handled everything. I expected the power to be too abrupt in rocky technical bits and the suspension too harsh. That wasn’t the case at all. Did I have to modulate the clutch more than the 2-stroke enduro in my garage? Yes. Did the suspension ever feel harsh? Not really. 

The KYB suspension on the X model handled everything I forced it over exceedingly well. Aside from setting the sag, I left the fork and shock at its factory settings. After all, suspension settings for off-road riding – particularly in the California desert – will always be a compromise. If you plan to ride through 50% rocks and 50% sand, then you’ll want to have your suspension settings dialed right in the middle. That said, if you ride a certain type of terrain or live/ride in an area with more consistent terrain, the KYB units offer plenty of adjustability to get you dialed in. It seemed the faster I went (with my moderate skill level), the better the KYB units worked. Kawasaki did a great job finding that “goldilocks” setting. 

There are three different couplers that come with the bike to change the fuel map. The 250X that I picked up from Kawasaki had the green (standard) coupler installed and again, for the mixture of riding I did, it was nearly perfect. Off the showroom floor, the black coupler will be installed on the X. I didn’t have the chance to test the black (mild) or white (wild) maps, but found the green to provide enough throttle response in sand while not being too abrupt in the rocks. 

Even during slower technical sections that required more clutch work, the hydraulic unit was easy to modulate and fatigue never crossed my mind (or left hand), nor did I have any clutch fade due to excessive use. The clutch’s strong precise engagement also made lofting the front wheel, pivot turns, etc. effortless. The 51-tooth rear sprocket also helped in these scenarios.

Ergos for 5-foot 8-inch me worked well in the factory settings with the handlebar in the closer position and the footpegs in the higher position. Larger or more particular riders can move the handlebar further forward and footpegs slightly forward and lower. The bike feels very menuevarable and slim. Weighing in at 240 lbs wet, it’s also easy to manhandle, should you need to. 

The brakes are strong and provide good feel. For those who like a softer lever, I would say the KX250X definitely errs on the stiff side, but this is my preference. So, I felt really comfortable with the front and rear brake power and feel overall. 

There are just a few downsides that I found with the KX250X. First is the fuel tank. The Kawasaki – unlike the equivalent Honda and Yamaha – brings with it the same 1.64-gallon fuel tank as the MXer. If you find yourself racing long distance or for hours on end, a larger tank will be an essential upgrade. Equally essential, would be handguards – as is evident by the amount of thorns embedded in my knuckles. 

My only other minor complaint is the close-ratio five-speed gearbox. My complaint here isn’t with how the system works as much as with where I live. The extra tooth on the rear sprocket combined with the close-ratio tranny means the bike not only pulls hard AF when you’re in the meat of the power curve, but also that you flip through the gears pretty quickly in open sections. Folks back east and those riding tighter tracks or trails likely won’t have any issues with this set up, but in the wide open west, the 250X runs out of steam quicker than I would like.

Typically, with XC machines we see these models getting updates a year or so after the motocrosser gets an overhaul. With Kawasaki’s new X model coming out the same year as the KX250’s overhaul, we get all the latest and greatest updates right out of the gate. I would say the KX250X falls right in between the Honda and Yamaha in terms of character, which means it could be right in the sweet spot for many riders. 

The first dirtbike I had in California was a 2009 Kawasaki KX250F with all of the modifications plus some (extra flywheel weight) – that Kawasaki has included with the 250X. Now, riders interested in Kawasaki have a ready-made bike from Team Green that’s race-ready (except handguards) off of the showroom floor. Like its motocross model, the KX250X is poised to dominate the category. We’ll have to see for ourselves how things shake out down the trail. 

The post 2021 Kawasaki KX250X Review appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

When the email came through about a dual-sport trip to Nevada not long after getting home from Colorado, I casually dismissed the invitation. I had heaps of work on my plate and an ongoing home renovation project – both of which were already requiring more attention than I had to give. Once things started to slow down and I had completed some of the looming projects, it didn’t take long for my relentless wanderlust to creep back in. I went back into my inbox to give the Nevada email another look. The itinerary spanned 850 miles of riding over six days with a travel day on either end.

Of course, I knew the trip would be spectacular. The person putting it together has loads of experience in the area and a lifetime of GPS track logs built by putting in the time and miles exploring. Could I get away for another week with everything going on at work and home? Did I want to? If so, I’d have to convince my boss and then get approval from Evans, too. Just as I began to really consider the possibility, I remembered the stories I had heard from the last couple of attempts at this itinerary. Two years ago, the ride had ended prematurely with a blown bike, and last year, the trip was cut short due to a broken collarbone. “Hmm, maybe I don’t want to do this,” I thought. People always say bad things happen in threes and I didn’t want to be the third to have a bad break, mechanical or otherwise. 

With all things considered, I decided to go for it because, well, I’m young and foolish. I’m the type that never says, no. I’ll always take on assignments, projects, etc. Maybe it’s the FOMO, or just that I truly enjoy new experiences, whatever they may be. I brought the idea up to Evans, and we discussed whether or not I should take vacation or bring back a story or two and call it work. 

Always hungry for more content on the site, he suggested I talk to Honda about using its CRF450L for the trip. Why not? After all, Brent and I’s comparison test a while back saw the Honda faring pretty well against the time-tested KTM 500 EXC-F. I’d have a chance to put the Honda to the test in a way we rarely get to these days. With only about five percent of the itinerary’s mileage consisting of pavement, it would be a fantastic way to test the real dual-sport capability of the Honda CRF450L. 

After confirming with Honda the availability of a 450L, we were set, or so I thought. A heavy workload for our friends at Honda North America nearly had me taking vacation instead. I had asked about using the 450L, which wasn’t a problem as they had one available, but I had a few requirements: a larger fuel tank, proper knobbies wrapped around heavy-duty tubes (it’s rocky in Nevada), and wrap-around handguards. They could deliver on all but the handguards, So, I asked for replacement levers to stow in my pack for insurance. I really wish manufacturers would fit dual-sport and enduro bikes with wrap-around handguards from the factory, but that’s a rant for another time. 

Up until a day before I was planning to pick up the bike, everything was cherry. Then, a miscommunication about the timeline led to a text message that the bike would not be ready in time. Honda thought they had one more day to prepare the 450L than they did. As I finished prepping my personal dual-sport for the trip and was about to submit my vacation request, I got a call from Honda’s PR manager that he thought he would actually be able to pull it off and have the bike prepped for pick up later that day. As we spoke, he was rummaging through parts bins to find extra levers and locating some slightly used Dunlop D606s to have mounted. Reliability isn’t just found in the company’s machines, the folks we deal with at Honda North America are just as dependable and weren’t going to let us down if they could help it. 

The next morning I loaded the CRF450L between a couple of pumpkins in the back of a friend’s Transit and headed northeast. We met the other two members of our posse at the motel where we would be stowing the vans for the next six days. After dinner, our crew turned in early to get a reasonable start the next morning – it always takes a little longer the first day to get everything set before blast off. 

Day one was spent getting used to the bike on some slick gravel-strewn fire roads and two-trackers. The day was mostly fast paced with some really fun faint two-track trails running through dense fields of sagebrush. I added three clicks of rebound damping to the shock which helped keep the rear end much more planted and compliant during fast sections where the rear was previously rebounding much too fast over large bumps and g-outs. The adjustment didn’t seem to cause any issues in slower technical stuff either. 

The throttle and powerband took some getting used to though. The throttle requires a bit of attention to avoid abruptness, particularly when the motor is spun up. During technical rocky climbs when the motor was in its powerband, I had a difficult time minimizing wheel spin and keeping traction. As the rest of the day had hinted, the fork felt pretty harsh when taking bigger, slower hits. In the faster, more flowing trail sections that weren’t littered with rocks, it felt fine and totally in its element, but in slower sections over large rocks, the fork felt like it would get to a point in the stroke where the damping felt like you were trying to shoot molasses through a pinhole. 

The day concluded with a rocky descent through switchbacks on the side of a massive canyon. At the bottom, sits a small community consisting of a double-digit population replete with character. The saloon/motel was across the dirt road from the gas pump which meant we didn’t have far to walk for everything we needed. 

Our waitress (and cook) the next morning was Nancy, a cheeky elderly woman whose ribbing was cleverly timed and enjoyed, despite the early morning hour. A light, steady drizzle came down as we warmed ourselves with coffee inside the restaurant. Overnight, a cold front had rolled in leaving the gorge shrouded in fog so dense it concealed the surrounding mountain tops. The waterproof pack jacket I had brought would be seeing early use during this trip. Once we were full of caffeine, salty meat, and eggs, we geared up and set off for what would turn out to be quite the day for yours truly.

We made our way out of the canyon through winding fire roads. The light rain remained constant and while doing a slow u-turn, I had my first tip over. At almost zero mph, I couldn’t get my foot to the ground fast enough and slowly dropped the 450L on the downward slope. As soon as it happened I knew I had probably broken the clutch lever. Unfortunately, I was correct. This is one of the reasons I prefer wrap-around handguards, because it is so easy to break a lever in a silly situation like this one. Thankfully, there was still enough lever to use with two fingers due to the notched tip, so I didn’t bother replacing it. I just filed the sharp edges down a bit with a rock.

After cruising through more miles of fire roads, we dropped into some faster two-track trails that meandered through rolling grasslands where cattle grazed. I came up to a large wallowed-out muddy stream crossing at speed and thought I would take a less-used line to the side. Never have I so quickly and completely cleared the handlebars of a motorcycle. You see, that little stream was cut deep enough into the earth that it swallowed the Honda’s 21-inch front wheel and sent me shoulder first into that cold muddy stream. When I got up I felt water run out of my helmet down the back of my neck. It was around 50 degrees that morning so, needless to say, it was more than refreshing. I tried not to think about all of the cows and what the stream might have washed down with it. 

About the time I was utterly soaked in questionable water, the rain let up and the sun came out. Later in the day, we regrouped and encountered yet another mudhole. More tentative than I might have been had I not gone over the bars earlier in the day, I stopped, assessed the situation, and decided to give it a go at a particularly sloppy section. With what turned out to be not enough speed and aggression, I got myself stuck. After attempting to power through the mud, I was sunk to my rear axle in slop. It took three of us to pull the machine out and we nearly lost one of our crew (or at least her boots) to the bottomless goo. See lead image. 

Today was not my day. I hadn’t had this much trouble on a dirtbike since I started riding four years ago. And it was only day two! The trails turned rocky as we began to climb, dipping down periodically into small valleys of Aspens tucked neatly between rolling hills. During a particularly long and steep rocky climb, I felt like the only way I’d make it to the top was to carry some serious speed while choosing my line as best as possible to avoid the craggy embedded rocks that were coming at me with equally serious ferocity. 

After smashing into a few especially hard-edged corners, I made it to the top. Worried about the possibility of a pinch flat I checked both tires throughout the next few miles. I couldn’t believe how much of a handful the bike had been, but then I remembered that the Honda weighs nearly 50 pounds more than my similarly equipped dual-sport, and some of that weight is fairly high in the frame, meaning that it gives the bike a pendulum effect when knocked back and forth. During normal riding, the Honda masks its weight quite well, but in more technical terrain, it’s noticeable. 

After a quick regroup at the top we pushed on, spacing out to avoid the little dust there was and give each other room. I crested a hill at what was probably the top of third gear and something happened. I’m still not sure what, but it sent me to the ground so hard and quick that I still can’t comprehend it. I watched the bike slide down the trail and then into the grass on the side. As I got up, fairly stunned, I saw my tool belt had ripped off of my waist and my GPS had too flown the coop. The term “yard sale” comes to mind. The two riders following me eventually caught up and saw the mess I had made of myself. Thankfully, the bike started just fine, but the handlebars had been pretty severely tweaked. I tried to straighten them out by holding the front wheel between my knees and jerking the handlebars to one side. It helped a bit, but they weren’t perfect. I decided to ride with them the way they were until our next regroup. 

At this point, I was ready to call it quits. Despite the beautiful scenery, and what might have otherwise been enjoyable trails, I was done. I started hatching a plan to go back to the motel where the vans were sitting and just work from there until the others finished their ride. With all this bad luck, bad riding, whatever it was, I started to worry that I was going to end up seriously injuring myself. 

“F*************CK!” I yelled, as I landed on my side in a deep silty road. I should have probably been focusing on the ride. The expletive was shouted more out of frustration than pain. Imagine falling into a giant pile of flour. Everything was covered. The bike and I looked antique. It would seem the Honda had had enough of me. The bike would turn on, the lights, dash, etc., but the starter button did nothing. After surviving the severe impact earlier, I was shocked that this low-speed tip over in powder would have done in Big Red. 

Then I noticed the rear wheel was completely locked. In neutral, the rear wheel wouldn’t budge, the chain had absolutely no slack in it. Once realizing that the chain had jumped some teeth, perhaps from being too loose, we got the chain back on the sprockets and then adjusted for the appropriate tautness. The wheel was back to spinning freely, but the bike still wouldn’t start. After a lot of troubleshooting with my basic mechanical know-how, we decided, in the waning light, that we needed to get back on the road. We were still 25 miles from our destination. 

This is why you should, 1.) Not ride alone, and 2.) carry a tow-rope. With no tow-rope in my pack, I was at the mercy of the two much more, um, mature riders that had stuck around with me during this debacle. The other two members of our quintet were far enough ahead that they had to continue into town to try to get gas before the only pump for 50 miles shut down for the evening. They didn’t make it, so there was no turning back to check on the rest of us and, as my luck would have it, one of those two were the most mechanically knowledgeable of the group. A KTM 500 XC-W ended up towing me 23 miles into town through more silt, narrow winding trails, and then a skosh of highway. In the middle of all of that, I managed to coast downhill by myself for two miles. I forced myself to keep my hand and foot off of the brakes in order to get as far as possible. Day two had sucked.

After some detective work by our ride leader in the motel parking lot, he was able to narrow the starting issue down to a blown FI fuse, after of course, we had cut and by-passed the clutch interlock sensor (sorry, Honda). The bike started, and I was set to continue on our ride. Great. 

No really, I was appreciative. What else was I going to do? Sit in a town consisting of a gas station, a bar, a motel, and a few houses for four or five days while I waited for the others to come get me? 

The following morning consisted of microwave burritos, instant coffee, and bringing the bike back to its pre-Ryan rideability. We loosened the triples in order to get the fork legs straightened out and decided we would try raising the fork tubes to see if we could get the bike steering a little quicker while we were at it. It was also pointed out that the rear wheel had been rubbing the exhaust which meant I had tweaked the subframe, the exhaust, or something else. Once we got the handlebars straightened, we laid the bike on its left side and started looking for a piece of wood tall enough to reach from the ground to the exhaust. 

My stomach turned at the thought of what we were about to have to do to this press bike. The guys had not stopped giving me grief asking what Honda was going to say when I returned the bike. I wasn’t sure. I still “owed them a beer” from the Africa Twin disaster during our last big ADV shootout. When I set the bike on its side in the gravel parking lot, I had put a folded up belt under the grip so it wouldn’t get damaged which, of course, brought more heckling from the peanut gallery. After what I had put the bike through, who cared about a grip? I did. Ugh, poor bike, I thought to myself as I climbed on top of it. I grabbed one of the guy’s hands to stabilize myself as I jumped into the air and slammed my boots down on the Honda’s frame. The stump we had placed between the ground and the exhaust held firm and with one jump I had bent the muffler out of the way so it was no longer in danger of being contacted by the rear tire. 

Oh, and it turns out, in all of my excitement, I hadn’t checked the tire pressures and, without a tire gauge in my tool pack, I took one of the guy’s pushing on my rear tire on the trail and saying, “Feels the same as mine” as a good enough measurement. After all the trouble I had, we decided to check the pressure and it nearly blew the pencil gauge’s measurement bar out the end. I had somewhere north of 25 pounds of pressure in my rear tire and roughly the same in the front. I should have been running 15 or so on both ends. I couldn’t believe I had made such a stupid mistake. Of course, this was adding to a lot of my traction issues. While the Honda’s engine characteristics still made things tricky, the high pressures had exacerbated the issues. 

After all of that abuse, the bike was ready to roll once more. I asked the motel/gas station owner if I could use a hose to clean off the bike. After all, it was the least I could do for the poor machine after stomping on it. Once we hit the trails, the only thing we had to backpedal on was the fork height adjustment. Moving the fork tubes up had made the bike incredibly unstable. It felt like the wheel was under the motor so we returned them to the factory position which was much more stable. With a refreshed yet cautious attitude, I tackled the day from the back of the pack. I never felt totally comfortable in the rocks with the 450L, and that hadn’t changed. The suspension just wasn’t jiving, and the fork was delivering a lot of those impacts directly to my hands and wrists. At the last section of the day, I had a good run following one of the guys through a faster, vegetation-dense section of trail that ended at a cattle gate that would need closing after we had all passed through. I decided I’d wait till our last rider came through to help close the gate. After what started to seem like a worrying amount of time, she showed up.

“Something happened to my rear brake,” she said, worried. She mentioned there had been a loud noise from the rear, a puff of white smoke, and then pedal pressure went away. She’d also found a stick lodged in the pedal afterward. It took only a quick look at her rear brake to see that the inboard supports on the caliper had blown off and the piston was now pushing the brake pads into the rotor to the point that the inner pad had been almost severed at that point by the friction. “This itinerary is cursed,” I thought to myself. It was her bike that blew up two years ago, too! I told her I’d bet our lead rider (her boyfriend) says, “I’ve never seen anything like that!” when we caught up with them at the pavement stretch back into town. Sure enough, on cue, “I’ve never seen anything like that!” he blurted out. 

That little snafu caused the couple to miss the next day’s intended route. Rather, they decided to use BFRs to get to our next destination and spent the morning calling shops and dealerships to see if they could get a caliper delivered to the evening’s motel. A single shop in Idaho had one rear caliper in stock. The dealer told us the entire state’s KTM dealerships have their parts inventory visible to one another, meaning that it was the only one in the state. At least some good fortune was had. They helped to arrange a courier service delivery that would have the caliper to the motel that evening, which it did. In the morning, we swapped in the new caliper and pads and she was ready to ride. Good as new. 

Our ride leader, Jim, wasn’t going to let anything stop him from finishing this itinerary out. We’d see it through till the end this time! 2020 was the year (ha!).

The following day started out rocky and stayed that way. It was 145 rocky miles of hell. Okay, that may be an exaggeration, but with the way the Honda performed through rockier sections, I wasn’t looking forward to an entire day of it. I was too worried to carry much speed for fear of getting a pinch flat (especially now that my pressures were where they should be). And the way the Honda was smashing through the rocks, I didn’t want to go any faster anyway. I slowly made it through the day. I can still feel the pain in my hands, no doubt permanent at this point, as I’m typing this two weeks later. 

The end of day five took us through some really beautiful trails flush with Aspens and through a few stream crossings. Thankfully, these were full of rocks rather than cow excrement. We were warned that there was a long steep uphill toward the end. “Nothing too technical, you just don’t want to lose momentum,” I was told. 

That hill nearly defeated me. On the first attempt I got stuck and dug a hole quickly in the dry, loose rocky dirt. Back at the bottom for a second try, I let a good amount of air out of my rear tire, drank the half-ounce of water I had left, and gave it another go, stalled, and had to come back down again. A third attempt kicked me sideways and shot me off downhill and the bike landed upside down. Picking up a 300-pound motorcycle with its skid plate facing uphill in terrain you can barely stand on is tiring. Absolutely exhausted from getting beat up by the bike all day, I had to take some time to catch my breath and suck whatever moisture I could out of my Camelbak. Our ride leader rode down and offered to ride the Honda up the hill and let me use his bike. No f*cking way was I going to let that happen. I politely declined, and then, in anger, blasted my way to the top of the hill.

At the top, I had a clear view of a steeper hill climb, albeit shorter, ahead of us. One guy tried and failed so we decided to go cross country and traverse the side hill that happened to be littered with massive piles of tombstone-sized scree. Everyone struggled a bit, including yours truly (hard to imagine, right?), but we managed to make it to the top. At that point, the ride into town was a cakewalk compared to where we had come from, but it was still sprinkled with a few steep rocky descents. We were back in the small village we had stayed at the first night, and the saloon had never looked so welcoming. After some impressive stand-up comedy from the bar/restaurant/motel’s (and many of the other businesses in town) proprietor, we had burgers at the bar and promptly went to bed. 

Day six, the final day. I was happy to be on the home stretch. It turned out that when the bike had ended up upside down on that steep hill I must have poked a couple of holes in the radiator. At our first regroup out of town we decided that the amount of coolant on my left boot necessitated a fix. Down the Honda went again on its side as we performed more trail triage on the big girl. Once the Quick Steel had cured we topped her up with water and we were good to go again. So was I. Knowing that it was the last day rejuvenated my battered and broken spirits and thankfully, the trail, although it was 160 miles or so, managed to be a lot of the faster flowing terrain that the Honda was much more adept at railing through. 

In the afternoon, we snaked through canyons with tall reddish-brown jagged walls stretching high to meet the perfect blue sky above. The dirt road was lined with golden Aspens glowing in the Autumn sun. I think we all slowed down through that portion just to enjoy the scenery. Our last miles were spent passing through a 198,000-acre private ranch that our ride leader had acquired a permit for, giving us special permission to travel through the area. Slightly sunburnt, thoroughly battered (maybe that was just me and the 450L), and inundated with dust. We reconvened at the highway that would take us back to our starting point.

What a ride. The Honda CRF450L had managed to make it through despite my abuse. If I owned the bike – which I may be forced to once Honda reads this – there are some definite measures I would take to remedy some of the issues I had. Weight savings would be first. Stripping everything I possibly could and replacing parts with 450X components like the rear subframe, where feasible. Next, I would send the suspension out to get re-valved and probably change the spring rates. The IMS three-gallon tank is a necessity for the type of riding I do. The stock two-gallon tank simply won’t cut it. And last but not least, wrap-around handguards. I would also probably throw on some of my favorite Bridgestone X40s on with HD tubes, too. 

With that work, I think I could be happy with the CRF450L, but as it sat on this trip, it was a handful. Not all of my issues were caused by the bike, for sure, but I think with the aforementioned changes, I would have had a smoother ride. Or maybe I wouldn’t have, and the itinerary really is cursed. I’m not sure I’ll go back to find out. 

The post The Infamous Nevada Itinerary appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

Four years ago, I bought my first real dirtbike (the 1978 Suzuki TS185 my friends and I passed around as kids didn’t count). It was a 2009 Kawasaki KX250F modified for desert trail riding. Foolishly, I bought that bike before I had a way to transport it to the desert that it had been modified for, or anywhere else really. At that point, I hadn’t owned a truck or any other four-wheeled vehicle for nine years. As numerous motorcycles made their way in and out of the garage over that time, I hadn’t felt the need or interest to own anything more than a few streetbikes thanks to southern California’s year-round riding season. 

Of course, considering my new purchase came with a red sticker instead of a license plate, it wouldn’t take long to realize that relying on others to come get me and my bike to go riding simply wasn’t a viable solution. Not long after, I bought a four-wheel-drive 1998 Ford Ranger from a co-worker. It had plenty of miles on it, but still ran like a top. Just so happens that truck was one year newer than the Chevy S-10 I bought when I was 16. Movin’ on up! 

Diagonally, I could fit a single bike in its bed with the tailgate closed. To make hauling two bikes easier, I mounted a single eye-hook in the bottom of the truck bed near the cab. It was simple, and it worked. The only reason I bought the truck was for hauling bikes anyway. Sure, there are plenty of aftermarket bike bars, and chocks out there to help secure motorcycles in a truck bed, but until now, I had never heard of a truck whose bed had been specifically designed, at the manufacturer level, to make hauling motorcycles easier. The GMC CarbonPro carbon fiber composite truck bed is just that. When equipped with the MultiPro tailgate, it makes loading, hauling, and unloading bikes a breeze.

That’s not just some PR claim from GMC either. The CarbonPro truck bed’s utility for hauling bikes runs deeper than simply adding a few more tie-down points and throwing some dirtbikes in the back for marketing photos. In fact, the new truck bed’s lead designer, Carl Zipfel, has been riding motorcycles since age seven. Just a few years later Zipfel started racing, and in 1985, he began competing in the Supercross and Outdoor National series in the U.S. As we motorcyclists know, once you start riding and become a passionate enthusiast, the love of riding permeates to your core. So, it’s no surprise to see that this project of Zipfel’s incorporates a few nuances that make GMC’s CarbonPro truck bed that much better for hauling bikes than the next truck. 

Not only did I have the opportunity to put the 2020 GMC Sierra Denali fitted with the CarbonPro truck bed to the test, but I also had the chance to interview the motocross racer-turned lead designer, himself. I’ll let Carl answer some questions we had about this latest development from GMC.

10 Questions with GMC’s Lead Designer Behind the CarbonPro Truck Bed

MO: Could you share with us a bit of your background as a motorcyclist turned designer?

CZ: At age 7, I got my first motorcycle for Christmas (Kawasaki Trail 75). I began racing motocross by age 10 and moved up through the amateur classes. In 1985, I started racing in the AMA pro supercross and outdoor nationals. After a few years of chasing the dream, I knew I had to find a career for which I had a similar passion as racing. After seeing a student exhibition of futuristic car and motorcycle designs, I found my way to the Cleveland Institute of Art and majored in Industrial and Transportation Design. In 1993, I graduated and immediately began working for the General Motors Design Center. I have been involved in the truck design studio for the majority of my 30-year career and have managed the GMC design team throughout the development of our new GMC Sierra.

MO: What sparked the idea behind redesigning the truck bed?

CZ: At GMC, we are always pushing for innovations that benefit our customers. While developing the all-new GMC Sierra, our leadership had an initiative to develop a lighter, stronger, innovative pickup box. We had been developing and testing our MultiPro tailgate system and decided that a great compliment to it would be our CarbonPro box for our GMC AT4 and Denali trim levels.

MO: Will we see any other models from GMC using the CarbonPro truck bed?

CZ: At this point, there are no plans to offer CarbonPro on our other trim levels. However, we are continuously striving to improve our products.

MO: How did you decide on the material? 

CZ: The CFRP (Carbon Fiber Reinforced Polymer) was the perfect material to design a lighter and stronger pickup box. It is approximately 60 lbs. lighter than our steel box, and it’s tough. A journalist bent an aluminum baseball bat while pounding on the CarbonPro box floor at a recent event we hosted. The CFRP material also provided an added level of formability over the steel panels.

MO: Carbon fiber is generally considered an exotic material that drives up cost. How much does this drive up the cost of the CarbonPro bed versus just incorporating a similar design in an aluminum or steel bed?

CZ: The CFRP was developed as a proprietary blend with a supplier, with the goal of finding the best applications on our products and helping to drive a new competitive advantage for GMC. The CFRP provides us with improved formability, allowing us to design more efficient structure features, like the wheel chock indents in the front bulkhead that can’t be done with steel.

MO: Were there any interesting features that have been considered for truck beds that haven’t made the cut?

CZ: We are constantly conceptualizing in the design studios and have developed many innovative ideas. The development process is robust enough that a new innovative idea has to earn its way in, by being viable for mass production, quality, cost, durability, and so forth.

MO: Do you know how many of your customers (percentages) historically use their trucks for powersports-related activities?

CZ: We continuously receive feedback from our customers throughout the development process and learned through our research that powersports is one of the more consistent uses for a pickup. For example, we know that more than half of our Sierra customers use their trucks to primarily tow equipment for outdoor adventures, including things like hauling motorcycles, dirt bikes, ATVs, or snowmobiles.

MO: What about the CarbonPro truck bed might appeal most to motorcyclists?

CZ: There are a couple of features influenced by motorcyclists that resulted from the ability to form the box differently than a steel box. After various tests, we determined that the front bulkhead needed structural vertical ribbing, and that quickly became an opportunity to design integrated wheel chock indents. We were also able to integrate additional tie down hooks on the bulkhead that are easier to reach and provide proper placement for the center tie downs if there is more than one bike. We moved the LED box lights further forward and up high into a protected position along the side panels. We have a 120V power plug at the rear of the box. When combined with the functionality of the MultiPro tailgate, loading, unloading, and securing motorcycles in the CarbonPro box becomes a much easier and safer task.

MO: How much of the design was driven by customer research versus personal interest (if any)?

CZ: We typically interact with customers on four occasions throughout the development process of an all-new truck like the GMC Sierra. During these interactions, existing truck owners have a chance to view and provide feedback on new designs and ideas. We use their feedback to help inform the development of the final designs. The CarbonPro bed offered us a unique opportunity. We could develop the box to suit a wider array of truck owner needs, with features like two-tier loading options, more tie down hooks, LED lighting, and power plug, while benefiting customers carrying powersports equipment, motorcycles or mountain bikes.

MO: What do trucks look like in the future? Not necessarily on the physical side of things, but rather what’s important to the truck user and the manufacturer moving forward?

CZ: The most important aspect is the functionality and capability of a truck, it cannot be compromised. We are always striving to improve. In the future, you will see improvements in efficiency, including better, stronger, lighter materials. Improvements in the range of the vehicle. New technologies in lighting. Trim levels that are diverse and designed for specific lifestyles and customer needs. Technologies that make traveling safer, easier, and more enjoyable. GMC will continue to create professional-grade products that are innovative, premium, and designed with our customers in mind.

In The Field

Now that we know the what and why, it was time for field testing. I pitched an idea to my editor that involved a trip to Colorado to do some alpine testing of the Husqvarna FE 350s and the Beta 300 RR among other things. One trip yielding four stories? That’s all the boss needed to hear and my request was approved.

 I received both bikes just days prior to heading to CO and finished packing my camping supplies the night before (as usual). When the 3:30am alarm went off, it was one of the few times that I willingly jumped out of bed ready to hit the road. The excitement was too much.

Loading the bikes into the Sierra Denali was made easy by GMC’s MultiPro tailgate. The six-way configurable tailgate – which I honestly thought was a bit gimmicky when it was first introduced – came in quite handy. No need for an extra step up into the bed, just fold the tailgate down and then fold the, er, secondary tailgate down further, and you can step up into the truck bed. There’s just one caveat, the angle isn’t perfect as the step is still pretty close to the truck. I’d be more hesitant to use it with a larger motorcycle since it compromises the leverage you have over the bike. For lighter motorcycles like dirtbikes though, it works great.

Once in the bed, the size of the CarbonPro truck bed, its ample tie-down points and integrated wheel chocks indents make securing motorcycles as easy as it always should be. Not only is there plenty of room to move around the bikes to secure tie-downs, but also the three anchor points which are strategically placed in each corner, plus the two on the bulkhead, allow for the right lashing points for any size and type of motorcycle.

The size, indents for wheels and plentiful mounting points are what make the biggest difference when hauling bikes. That said, the CFRP bed actually provides really great traction (wet or dry) compared to other composite truck beds I’ve used. If you’ve found yourself alone in the rain loading a 600-pound motorcycle into a truck sitting on a slight incline, you’ll appreciate the CarbonPro’s ample traction. When tossing gear in the back or using kickstands while loading, the CarbonPro bed also resists scratches better than any composite bed I’ve previously used.

As for the truck itself, the 2020 GMC Sierra that I tested was fitted with the company’s top-o-the-line Denali trim and loaded to the gills with options. As you might imagine, it was a sweet ride. The 6.2L V-8 mated to its 10-speed automatic transmission had more than enough power to let you easily forget you were hauling 500 lbs of motorcycles and the suspension kept the truck feeling planted and level with minimal body roll. The cockpit also provides a luxurious experience full of supple dark leather and rich (real) wood accents throughout, accompanied by all the technology one would expect to find in a modern luxury four-wheel drive truck (and probably more). That’s where GMC sees itself as the only truck maker in the category. The company’s luxury truck, the Denali, is more than capable of pulling normal truck duties while looking and feeling elegant. With the AT4 – the company’s “off-road” trim package – the feeling is mutual as the AT4 brings with it most of the amenities the Denali delivers with less chrome, a more menacing appearance, and a plethora of off-road focused upgrades like a two-inch lift, skid plates, an Eaton locking rear differential, upgraded dampers, and meatier rubber.

Interior space is ample for the driver and passenger as well as in the back seat. Folding the rear bench seat up provided plentiful storage inside, enough for two sets of camp gear, a decent-sized cooler, moto gear, and a ramp. I only kept the bikes and gas cans in the bed. Adaptive cruise control, the heads-up display, Bluetooth connectivity, maps, and the heated/air-conditioned seats kept me happy throughout the 1600-plus miles I spent in the truck, which was essentially in two 800-mile increments. The truck is loaded with cameras. Front, back, side to side. I’ve been stoked about the new “birds-eye” view ever since automakers started including this. With the image from all of the cameras stitched together, it makes backing up and parking quite a bit easier whether it’s maneuvering around stumps at a campsite, or trying to park the big truck in the city. Not to mention that there are what seem like dozens of ways the different cameras can be arranged at one time on the Sierra’s eight-inch display

You can go too far with the cameras though, it seems. One of the very few things I didn’t care for on the Denali I was loaned was the lack of an actual center rear-view mirror. Rather, the truck has a screen shaped like a mirror that uses one of two wide-angle cameras facing rearward near the top of the cab next to the taillight. It’s fine during the day with nothing in the bed, or even with two motorcycles loaded but, if you have one motorcycle loaded in the middle, it blocks almost the entire field of view. Furthermore, the camera does not work well at night, producing grainy, vague footage on the rear-view screen. I’d opt for the real deal instead of the screen.

On the gravel roads out to our campsite, the truck stayed composed even over graded corners as the road snaked up into the mountains. During my time with the Sierra, I averaged 17 miles per gallon with two motorcycles in the back and a variation of highway, city, and gravel mountain roads.

Once at camp, unloading the bikes was as easy as loading them. We could have even had tunes blasting if we wanted to since our tailgate was equipped with the Kicker audio accessory. The weatherproof system allows you to hardwire audio in, or use Bluetooth to connect your phone to play music. But I’m not the kind of guy that drives into the backcountry to blast tunes. So, it didn’t get used.

The MultiPro tailgate is particularly useful for loading and unloading dirtbikes and getting used to the step being a little closer to the truck didn’t take long. After the bikes were unloaded, I ended up keeping the inner tailgate folded down most of the time for ease of climbing into the truck bed to gear up and whatnot. There is even a handle that swings out of the side of the bed for a grab rail while stepping up onto the tailgate. I used the tailgate in the closed position with the inner section folded out as a table to give it a try. It worked nicely and if I were at a job site and needed a work surface at chest height, it’s a nice feature to have.

After seven days of camping and riding, it was nice to know loading the truck to head home would be easy and secure. Once packed and heading down out of the mountains, I was able to enjoy all the niceties that the Denali trim offers over the next 800 miles home. Make no mistake, you’ll be paying for that luxury and new technology, but, as always, one just has to decide if it is worth it for them. At a hair over $70,000, the truck I tested was nearly double what I paid for my own new truck, but there is definitely an argument to be made for the 2020 Sierra Denali 1500. As a guy who is constantly moving motorcycles around of all shapes and sizes, it’s pretty cool to see a manufacturer throw a bone to the folks on two wheels. If a truck can make your job even just slightly easier, while also being enjoyable during daily use, it has done its job. 

The post Haulin’ Dirtbikes with GMC’s Sierra Denali CarbonPro appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

I must preface this review with the disclaimer that this is the first Beta I’ve ever ridden. I’ve had the opportunity to spend time on various other two strokes in this genre, but the 2021 Beta 300 RR is the first from the Italian brand that I’ve had a chance to get out and ride. So don’t expect a thorough year-to-year comparison. I just can’t do it, captain!

What I can do though was drive 12 hours northeast from our base here in southern California to pop two cherries with one, uh, stone? My first ride on a Beta would also be my first four-day trail ride in Colorado. New bike, new terrain, 12-inch wide trails on the side of 13,000 ft mountains. Why not?

Even though I didn’t get the chance to ride it, the 2020 Beta 300 RR brought with it a host of upgrades that included an all-new chassis including the frame, swingarm, fuel tank, seat, and bodywork. The engine was also equipped with a counterbalance shaft to reduce vibrations. If we consider 2020 a revolutionary model year for the Beta 300, 2021 is more evolutionary with subtle suspension tweaks, sleeker bodywork, higher-quality electronics, and a beefier subframe.

With that in mind, let’s take a deeper look at the 2021 Beta 300 RR.

Two Smokin’

While the Beta-built 293.1cc liquid-cooled two-stroke engine is carbureted, it benefits from oil injection meaning no pre-mixing of gas and oil is necessary. This is achieved by a separate oil tank under the seat that uses engine rpm and a throttle position sensor to vary the metering of oil into the engine. This led to pretty good mileage at approximately 35 mpg with the 2.55-gallon tank providing 90 miles or so of range. There are also two warning indicators: one if your oil reservoir is running low, and another if the system encounters a failure.

The counterbalanced engine quells vibration from the motor significantly. Having the opportunity to ride a ’13 KTM 300 XC-W (not counterbalanced) back-to-back with the 2021 Beta 300 RR proved night and day in terms of the smoothness of the Beta’s engine. Another nice feature of the Beta for those who care about keeping riding areas open versus racing is that the bike is reasonably quiet.

We had to re-jet the 36mm Keihin PXK carburetor since the altitude at camp was over 10,000 feet and temps were a fair bit cooler than California. Thankfully, as with most two-strokes, there is plenty of room to get in there and twist the carb around to get these changes done fairly easily. After the jetting changes, we ended up tweaking the air screw a bit to make it richer off idle.

The Beta 300 RR also has what I’ll call a rain or shine mapping system with the button to change between the “sunny” or “rainy” setting mounted near the steering stem on top of the frame. Effectively, this button delays ignition timing in the “rain” setting so the power comes on later which can be better for slimy wet conditions. Only the last day did I find use for this setting during one of our trails which had the most mud, rocks, and roots. The rest of the time, I found “sunny” to be just fine for most riding and would likely never switch it back home in southern California.

Beta says this about its RR models:

“Our RR models are designed for a casual off road rider or racer that is looking for more than just a play bike. We take pride in our slogan “Rideability” as it truly points out the real strength of a Beta. Others are focused 90% on building a race bike that is sold to the average rider. Beta takes pride in designing a motorcycle that appeals to the ‘common’ rider. The layout of the engine, the lower seat height, and the smooth power delivery are all traits of the bikes that provide the average rider more confidence.”

While I never ended up tweaking the adjustable power valve (Beta sells an accessory knob so riders are able to easily adjust the power valve without tools), the low-end power delivery seemed a bit softer than expected, even causing the bike to flame out when I tried to tractor the motor down too low in the revs. This soft power delivery could be welcome in “east coast” riding conditions, but it didn’t deliver the same low-rpm punch that pulls hard into the mid-range that I’ve experienced on KTM 300 and 250 two-strokes. That’s not to say that the power isn’t there once you get closer to its mid-range, though. The engine still delivers plenty of umph once it starts spinning faster.

The six-speed wide ratio transmission is great for wide-open spaces and worked nearly as well in tight places. The Brembo hydraulic clutch gives smooth positive actuation without being remotely fatiguing. I would say, for the tight trail work I would be interested in doing with this bike, I would change the final drive ratios from the stock 14/48 to something around 13/52.

Although you could never get away with plating the Beta 300 RR here in California, the bike comes all wired up and ready for turn signals with the left switchgear, including buttons for brights, a horn, and indicators should you live in an area where you can license a two-stroke and are so inclined. It even comes with a nice display that shows speed, average speed, maximum speed, total miles, trip meter, hour meter, and battery voltage and is flanked by warning lights.

“Designed for a casual off road rider or racer”

Hmm. Designed for both the casual rider and racer. How do you go about doing that? I suppose the smooth power delivery, relatively low 36.6-inch seat height (it doesn’t feel that high), ability to add DOT-required necessities, oil injection, and electric start do make the 300 RR an approachable machine for anyone. Also keeping with the ease of use theme, the airbox cover and seat can be removed without any tools or keys. The seat easily pops off via a button located on the left rear fender. At the same time, if I were to race this bike, there are some changes I would make. While I already mentioned the gearing change, wrap-around handguards are probably the only other things I would do if I wanted to enter a race with the Beta 300 RR. I guess they’re right, it is a pretty great bike for everyone.

The handlebars are six-way adjustable and the seat-to-footpeg distance is quite comfortable for 5-foot 8-inch me. What’s not comfortable is the seat. Oh man. If you plan on sitting for any amount of time, you’ll want to replace it immediately.

One thing a casual rider might consider changing, unless we’re talking about aggressive weekend warriors, is the suspension. I found the suspension fairly stiff at the stock settings for my 185 pounds (with gear), but it’s really quite well-damped front and rear. It never felt harsh. I added some preload to the fork which helped the front end feel more planted, but aside from that, I was quite happy with the 48mm Sachs fork and Sachs linkage-type shock. Both are fully adjustable with the fork’s adjustments all able to be made from the top of the fork tubes without tools. The fork and shock provide 11.6 and 11.4 inches of wheel travel, respectively.

Once the pace ramps up, the suspension works even better, and you forget how jarring it can feel while going slow over bumpy terrain. The rigidity of the chassis, the suspension, and the Michelin Enduro tires all provide an excellent stable platform that stays compliant at speed without deflecting. The 300 RR feels nimble through tight trees as well; it was only the lack of low-end punch that left me wanting in those scenarios.

The Nissin two-piston front caliper bites a 260mm rotor while a single-piston caliper squeezes the rear 240mm rotor. It took me a little while to get used to the front brake. The initial bite isn’t too bad, but the stopping power ramps up quite quickly afterward meaning that the line between stopping quickly and locking the front is a fine one. As for the rear brake, I really appreciated the size and position of the pedal which made it easy to modulate.

To top it all off, the Beta 300 RR is one of the lowest priced bikes, if not the lowest, in its category at $9,199. That’s a great deal, particularly for riders looking for a casual, yet highly capable enduro bike. The biggest let down for me was the lack of a strong low-end hit and pull into the mid-range. It’s one of the things I love about the KTM’s I’ve ridden. If you’re not bothered by the softer smoother power delivery at low rpm, this bike is just as good as anything else out there.

The post 2021 Beta 300 RR Review appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

Tractoring up the single-track ascent, switchback after switchback with relative ease, a few thoughts ran through my head. One, this thing’s street-legal. Two, it’s kicking ass on this trail. Three, two-strokes aren’t the only machines that can be comfortable doing technical trail work. Admittedly, I’ve become somewhat smitten with my own two-stroke dirtbike, so much so that I had forgotten just how well a four-stroke can handle similar terrain, despite having begun my off-road riding career on a four-stroke 250.

The Husqvarna FE 350s manages to bridge the gap between 250 top-end and 450 grunt while maintaining the lightweight handling and maneuverability of the former. The lowercase s in the model’s name denotes it’s street-legal status. Like other FE models, the 350s gets top shelf componentry making it a great choice for those looking for a nimble dual-sport motorcycle. Similar to KTM’s EXC-F line, Husqvarna’s 350 is by no means a lower-spec lower displacement machine; rather the FE 350s combines some of the best characteristics of smaller and larger machines into what might just be the “goldilocks” package for size and power.

The Power Plant

The 350cc DOHC four-stroke Single uses much of the architecture from the now-defunct FE 250 (Husqvarna will only offer 350 and 501 “enduro” models for 2021), allowing the engine to remain compact and light despite the mid-level displacement. The FE’s Single is comfortable cruising at 60 mph down the highway while still having a little umph left to give should you need it. On the trail though, it’s the low- to mid-range torque that keeps the FE 350s pulling through technical climbs when one might expect a higher-revving Single to flame out.

For 2020, the engine receives slight updates throughout. Camshaft timing has been revised, and a focus was placed on reducing friction with a DLC coating added to the finger followers pushing titanium valves. The cylinder head features new cooling architecture, and with a new head gasket, compression ratio increases from 12.3:1 to 13.5:1. The forged bridged-box-type aluminum piston also keeps oscillating mass low, which adds to the motor’s free-spinning nature. The lightweight die-cast casings house the new six-speed Pankl Racing Systems gearbox which operates positively and effortlessly with the Dampened Diaphragm Steel (DDS) clutch and Magura hydraulic system. A single diaphragm steel pressure plate versus traditional coil springs makes the clutch pull very light while also integrating a damping system for better traction and durability.

Husqvarna says the engine itself weighs 61.5 pounds, which makes up a little under a quarter of the bike’s total weight of 254 lbs (fully fueled and ready to rip).

The Chassis

The Husqvarna FE 350s’ unique frame design incorporates a two-piece carbon fiber composite subframe – which Husqvarna claims saves 2.2 pounds – to the blue powder coated chromoly steel hydro-formed frame. “While retaining the advanced geometry of its predecessor, it features an increase in longitudinal and torsional rigidity, for improved rider feedback, better energy absorption and increased stability,” says Husqvarna.

As one might expect, WP suspenders are used fore and aft. The XPLOR fork that we’ve lauded with praise on many different models provides nearly 12 inches of travel from its open cartridge layout. For those unfamiliar with the XPLOR setup, both fork tubes include springs, but separate damping functions with rebound on the right and compression on the left. Damping can be easily adjusted by hand via the clickers on top of the fork tubes, each of which offers 30 clicks of adjustment. The preload adjusters on each fork leg allow for easier adjustment without the use of tools, as well.

Out back, the WP XACT shock also delivers full adjustability and 11.8 inches of travel. Unlike many of its orange brethren, the FE 350s uses a linkage-type suspension which is the same system used in the Husqvarna motocross range. Both high and low speed compression damping can be adjusted as well as preload and rebound, all of which use a standard setup for adjustment.

Magura components handle the stopping power on the 350, with a single 260 mm rotor and dual-piston setup up front and a single-piston caliper with a 220 mm rotor on the rear. Both the front and rear brake are easily modulated off-road.

The Niceties

There are a lot of niceties on modern dirtbikes and dual-sports. Electric start, or “the magic button” as some of my older riding buddies call it, is one of them. The FE also comes with a lightweight lithium-ion battery. Fuel injection is another welcome tech upgrade. The FE 350s uses a 42mm Keihin throttle body that’s positioned to ensure the most efficient flow into the combustion chamber. The throttle cable is mounted directly without a throttle linkage to provide immediate throttle response and improved feel. The 2.25-gallon tank provides enough fuel for approximately 130 miles (as always… you know the drill).

Then, of course, you have all of the necessary bits to make the bike street-legal. Turn signals, license plate holder, mirrors, lights, etc. The small LCD dash relays all of the standard information you might want (odo, trips, speed, so on and so forth).

Where the rubber meets the dirt

Back to my first thoughts. I didn’t get to spend multiple days back-to-back riding the FE 350s, but I did manage to log nearly 100 miles during my day riding, almost all of which was off-road and about 70% Colorado single-track.

When I first set off down the gravel road from camp, the front tire would push at even the slightest of turns. It was a slick gravel road, but after a few miles to the trailhead, I decided some work needed to be done before we started our ride. The fork tubes were all the way down in the triple clamps so I raised them up to the highest of the three markers which left just barely enough room to still be able to adjust damping and preload. This made a massive difference and adding a little preload helped as well. The bike was back to being its normal quick handling self. I also screwed the adjustable steering locks all the way in so I’d have maximum maneuverability while we were dicing through trees.

Off we went. Almost immediately, I was faced with switchback after switchback as we gained elevation rapidly. I was prepared to be using a lot of clutch for the tight uphill single-track but was pleasantly surprised that the motor would lug down pretty low without feeling like it was going to stall. Furthermore, around each uphill hairpin turn, the motor had plenty of grunt at low rpm to loft the front wheel for tight pivot turns.

During a particularly fun trail snaking through Aspens, it also became evident just how quick and nimble the FE 350s could handle a tight flowing trail. The bike soaked up bumps like a Cadillac and remained composed while effortlessly darting between trees. That was one of the faster trails of the day and the bike handled it really well.

Later in the day in the day we hit a trail that was new to all of us thanks to a new trail plan implemented a few months ago. The new trail proved to be steep and unrelenting all the way to the top. Again, the Husqvarna FE 350s left me wondering why it had been so long since I’d ridden a four-stroke on tight single-track. The suspension handled the slow going steep climbs very well keeping the tires planted and biting during the ascent. Boulders and rock ledges between and in the middle of switchbacks were no match for the Husqvarna. Even during all of the slow going, the bike never managed to boil its gas or spit coolant. While I had started the day worrying about frying the clutch due to the stock gearing, I ended up having zero issues.

“Man,” I thought to myself during the aforementioned new trail, “this bike has really surprised me.” As I mentioned in the beginning, the best part of all of this was that the FE 350s is street-legal and kicking ass on even the most technical trails we rode that day.

With all of that adoration heaped on the white bike, could it get better? The answer to that question is yes. I dialed in the suspension damping a bit at both ends to better suit the riding we were doing, and while I didn’t deviate far from the manufacturer specs, that was probably more of a result of the terrain suiting the suspension than vice versa. I imagine the 350s would have felt soft in the California desert’s wide open expanses at speed.

Getting a license plate on a bike like the 350 requires more than just slapping turn signals and lights on a bike and calling it good. Regulatory emissions standards have to be considered from the engine itself, to the exhaust, to how much noise the tires make on the ground and performance is almost always lost at this expense. If you don’t need a plate and you want more performance, the FE model (sans s) should do the trick.

For technical riding, if I were to purchase the FE 350s, there would be a small handful of mods that I would make before I ever hit the trail. One of the first things I would do would be changing the final drive gearing. Dropping one tooth on the countershaft sprocket and adding two or four to the rear. Also, a tire swap would be required. The TKC80s are fine if you’re doing mostly street or fire roads, but for anything more, the benefits of full knobbies can’t be overstated. I’d definitely swap out the stock mirrors for something a little less intrusive – and probably only use one. Wrap around handguards I’ve also found to be a necessity (more on that in an upcoming story). I would get out and ride it in some of my favorite areas before doing any suspension work, but for my purposes, which include as little street and fire road as possible, I’d probably bump up the suspension’s spring rates.

As we always say though, your mileage may vary. If you see yourself using the bike for commuting, going to school, some trails, etc., you’ll probably be fine leaving the bike bone stock. It all depends what you’re planning to do with it. Other than Husqvarna throwing some propper knobbies on it, I rode the bike in stock form and it impressed me so much that my riding buddies were probably tired of hearing about it at each snack stop. The FE 350s is a great platform that I thoroughly enjoyed off-road – and it’s street-legal! At $11,099, the price of admission isn’t cheap, but you’d be hard pressed to find a bike that handles nearly every situation as well as the FE 350s does.

The post 2020 Husqvarna FE 350s Review appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

The new FLY Formula helmet sits atop the company’s helmet line up in terms of safety, materials, and price ($649.96). FLY’s Conehead EPS technology, Impact Energy Cells from Rheon Labs, and the helmet’s 12k carbon fiber shell all come together to make a substantial lid that FLY claims is its safest yet. 

After being able to use this lid during some technical trail rides as well as a recent 1,000-mile dual-sport trip, I’m happy to report that I can’t report on its crashworthiness. There is still plenty to talk about though. First, let’s do a deep dive into what makes this helmet stand out in the market. 

Tech

Starting from the outside, the FLY Formula’s shell is built from 12k carbon fiber. The 12k refers to the 12,000 carbon filaments per band. These wider, flatter carbon fiber weaves make the shell both lighter and stronger than a smaller, more traditional carbon fiber weave.

Next up is FLY’s Conehead EPS technology. The company claims the unique EPS “provides a softer liner through which cones help manage and absorb impact force more efficiently. Six critical zones have been fine-tuned for a progressive response to low-speed and high-speed impacts”. The helmet also uses a thicker EPS liner in specific areas such as the forehead to provide better protection in areas more likely to sustain impact. 

Heading deeper still into the Formula’s layers of protection are the Rheon Labs Impact Energy Cells. These cells are made from highly strain-rate sensitive polymers that stiffen momentarily while absorbing energy. The technology is similar to the more widely known D3O material. The shape of these cells are said to maximize absorption of low-speed linear and rotational impacts while reducing forces transmitted to the brain.

The helmet’s liner also uses a few different densities of foam to provide comfort, wrapped in a fairly basic soft antimicrobial fabric. 

On the Trail

After using the FLY Formula for some time now, I’m impressed by the fit and lightness of the helmet. The medium is more snug than most of my helmets, including the FLY F2 Carbon, but not uncomfortably so. The helmet fits an intermediate oval head shape. The foam used in the comfort liner is more dense than the F2 and seems like it’s going to take longer to break in, but the secure feeling is by no means uncomfortable, even after nearly a week of use for about seven hours a day. From the first time I pulled the Formula helmet on, to today, I’ve had no hotspots and have been overall quite happy with the fit. 

The light weight also helps to lessen fatigue during long stints wearing the helmet. At 2 lbs 14.8 ounces (1327 grams), the FLY Formula is one of the lightest off-road helmets I’ve used. That being said, the FLY F2 Carbon on my shelf is just an ounce heavier and costs $400 less. Of course, with the F2 you’re not getting the 12k carbon, Conehead, or Rheon technology. 

My only complaints about the helmet are that it’s fairly loud and that the ventilation works best at a good clip. On blustery days there were times when at a standstill, the wind would whip through the helmet and almost sound as though it was echoing off of the carbon shell around my ears. The remedy for this is to simply wear earplugs if you’re not already. The helmet flows a decent amount of air as long as you’re moving quickly, once the pace starts slowing down when the riding is more technical, it doesn’t seem to ventilate as well. This feeling may also be attributed to the denser foam in the comfort liner, but I didn’t notice this issue with the F2 Carbon.

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Remember back in the good ol’ days of 2019 when we were gathering en masse, kissin’ hands and shakin’ babies? I do. Well, way back in September of last year MO had the opportunity to test three new Kawasaki motorcycles: the street-legal KLX230, and the off-road only KLX230R and KLX300R. Shortly after, as is usually the case, my reviews went live on Motorcycle.com to tell you all about the KLX230 and KLX230R. Why wasn’t the KLX300R included? Because I was only able to spend a third of one day riding it and honestly, I believed it deserved a more thorough test because it really is a compelling motorcycle for what I think could be a large audience, and at the low price of $5,499, it becomes even moreso.

It’s been a while since Kawasaki had a 300cc trail bike. So long in fact, that some newer riders may not be aware of its long run and popularity in the 1990s through the early 2000s. As interest in trail bikes began to wane and the popularity of sportbikes increased, Kawasaki all but abandoned its off-road lineup, leaving only smaller displacement models like the KLX110 and 140 in production.

Now that trail bikes, dual-sports, and all sorts of off-road motorcycles are some of the only categories on two wheels seeing an uptick in sales, it makes sense that Kawi would jump back into the game and the 300 is back to lead the KLX-R model range.

Nice Package

If you remember the KLX300R from the early aughts, you likely note the similarities of the engine, frame, and overall specs. That’s not necessarily a bad thing. The KLX300R has had a long reputation of being a solid platform and now, it’s kind of in a category of one when considering the market. For those outgrowing bikes like the Honda CRF230, Yamaha TT-R230, or Kawasaki’s own KLX230R, the KLX300R makes total sense for a trail bike that offers better performance and more power without being the least bit intimidating. For street riders interested in riding off-road, again, a fantastic option that will be easy for dirt noobs to hop on and feel comfortable from the first push of that fantastic electric start button. Even experienced riders will come away with an appreciation of what the KLX300R is capable of.

Back to that magic button. The 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R boasts electric start and fuel injection – both things that make living with, riding, and maintaining the new 300 nearly effortless. The 292cc DOHC Single delivers predictable and progressive power across its mid-range and is able to tractor up obstacles fairly easily – within reason. The 34mm throttle body responsible for the bike’s fuel injection is very well metered and incredibly smooth at the throttle. Thumb the starter button and the bike fires up immediately without hesitation and instantly falls into a quiet steady idle.

Ergonomically, the bike feels pretty well-suited for 5-foot 8-inch me. The handlebar is four-position adjustable to help dial in the rider triangle for all sorts of rider preferences and sizes. The footpeg to seat ratio feels spot on and transitioning from sitting to standing feels totally natural. The front fairings shrouding the 2.1-gallon fuel tank and radiators aren’t too wide either, allowing the rider to scoot up easily on the bike when trying to get weight onto the front wheel. It’s only the rather tall tank that will inhibit forward movement. The grippy flat seat also allows for plenty of movement aft as well. The 36.4-inch seat height sounds more intimidating than it actually is, as the shock settles a fair amount once mounted. My 30-inch inseam had no issue getting both boots on level ground.

The six-speed transmission feels nice and precise and clutch pull at the lever is light and unlikely to cause fatigue for most riders. The one issue I found here wasn’t with the transmission or clutch itself, but rather with the distance between the shift lever and the rather small dated-looking footpegs (probably leftovers from the ’90s). The distance between the two constantly caused accidental upshifts or downshifts which, naturally, came at the most inopportune times. Not only was the distance an issue, but the entire lever is far enough away from the engine that even if you’re not pressing the end of the lever with your toe, you’re likely to hit the lever further back with the inside of your boot. With size 10 motocross boots, I feel I’m probably in the average range for most riders so this is likely to be an issue for a lot of people. A new gearshift lever would be the second aftermarket purchase I would make, after addressing the lack of OE-equipped handguards.

Newer riders, intermediate riders, and folks that are content with cruising will be happy with the KLX300R’s KYB 43mm USD fork (adjustable for compression) and gas-charged piggyback linkage-type shock (adjustable for preload, rebound, and compression), both delivering 11.2 inches of travel. Experienced riders who typically find themselves on slower technical trails will also likely be content with the stock suspenders, though will probably tweak the shock’s settings. Bottoming resistance is also commendable, so long as you’re not hucking it at the motocross track. It’s only once the pace really picks up that the stock suspension starts to feel overwhelmed, otherwise, it delivers a comfy, cushy ride.

The relatively short 56.5-inch wheelbase makes the bike easy to maneuver around on tight trails and the 21/18-inch wheel combo keeps the KLX300R compliant over obstacle-strewn terrain. The Dunlop MX52s also provide great traction, although I’ve noticed they don’t tend to last long in rocky desert environments. At a measured 288 pounds full of liquids, the new 300 isn’t too heavy, but if you’ve been riding lighter bikes (maybe a one with a couple less strokes) and you tip over on this one, you’ll be reminded it isn’t the lightest either. The two-piston caliper paired with a single 270mm disc up front does a great job of getting things slowed down while the rear single-piston caliper gives good modulation at the lever and is plenty powerful to stop its 240mm rotor. The front brake lever also offers some adjustment.

The bike’s plastics look entirely modern and shroud the other not-so-modern bits. I dig the choice to use the green/black/gold throwback graphics which are also found on the latest KX models. They give the bike a little extra character.

All in all, the 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R is a great bike. It never feels overly fast or intimidating, but it can handle technical trails, two-trackers, and single track all day. If all-out performance isn’t what you’re looking for, or if you’re new to riding off-road and/or want a bike that won’t break the bank, the resurgence of Kawi’s KLX300R is an indomitable choice. I mean, come on, for $5,499 everyone should have one in their garage.

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