Riding a dirt bike can be an incredibly exhilarating experience, but it can also be intimidating for beginners. With the right knowledge and practice, however, anyone can learn how to ride like a pro. In this article, we’ll cover all the basics of dirt bike riding, from starting the bike to handling a crash. We’ll also provide tips for experienced riders to help them improve their skills.

Starting the Bike:

Before you can start riding, you’ll need to know how to start the bike. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Turn on the fuel valve and choke, if necessary.
Place the bike in neutral.
Engage the clutch lever and hold it in.
Push the starter button or kick start the bike.
Release the clutch lever slowly until the bike starts to move.
Riding Position:

Maintaining the correct riding position is key to riding a dirt bike safely and effectively. Here are some tips for maintaining the correct riding position:

Keep your knees bent and your weight centered over the bike.
Grip the bike with your legs.
Keep your head up and look ahead.
Keep your elbows up and out.
Keep your feet on the footpegs.

Clutch Control:

The clutch is a critical component of a dirt bike and is used to control the bike’s speed and power output. Here’s how to use the clutch:

To start moving, engage the clutch lever and release it slowly as you give the bike some gas.
To shift gears, pull in the clutch lever and shift up or down with your foot.
When coming to a stop, engage the clutch lever to prevent the bike from stalling.

Shifting Gears:

Shifting gears on a dirt bike is essential for controlling the bike’s speed and power output. Here’s how to shift gears:

Use your foot to shift up or down.
Start in first gear and shift up as you gain speed.
Shift down as you slow down.
Braking:

Braking is a critical skill for any dirt bike rider. Here’s how to brake effectively:

Use the front brake lever to slow down or stop the bike.
Use the rear brake pedal to control your speed when going downhill.
Use both brakes together for maximum stopping power.

Accelerating:

Accelerating smoothly and effectively is essential for controlling the bike’s speed and power output. Here’s how to accelerate:

Use the throttle to control the bike’s speed and power output.
Accelerate gradually to prevent the bike from jerking.
Use the clutch to control the bike’s power output when starting from a stop.
Turning:

Turning on a dirt bike is different from turning on a road bike. Here’s how to turn effectively:

Lean the bike in the direction you want to turn.
Keep your weight centered over the bike.
Look where you want to go.

Safety Tips:

Riding a dirt bike can be dangerous, so it’s important to take the proper safety precautions. Here are some tips to keep you safe:

Wear protective gear, including a helmet, goggles, gloves, boots, and a chest protector.
Ride within your skill level and never ride alone.
Stay alert and aware of your surroundings.
Always ride in designated areas.
Handling a Crash:

Despite your best efforts, crashes can still happen. Here’s what to do if you crash:

Stay calm and assess the situation.
Check yourself and your bike for injuries or damage.
Seek medical attention if necessary.
Learn from the experience and take steps to prevent future crashes.

Riding Tips for Experienced Riders:

If you’re an experienced rider, here are some tips to help you take your skills to the next level:

Practice regularly to maintain and improve your skills.
Experiment with different riding techniques and styles to find what works best for you.
Push yourself, but always stay within your limits and ride within your skill level.
Take lessons or attend training courses to learn new skills and techniques.
Ride with other experienced riders to learn from them and get feedback on your riding.

How to Ride a Dirt Bike Like a Pro:

Learning how to ride a dirt bike takes practice, patience, and a willingness to learn. By following these basic tips, you can start riding like a pro and enjoy the thrill and excitement of off-road riding. Remember to always ride safely, wear protective gear, and practice good riding habits to stay safe and have fun.

The post How to Ride a Dirt Bike Like a Pro – For Beginners appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

As an off-road enthusiast, a stuck throttle on your dirt bike can be a terrifying experience. Not only can it cause you to lose control of your bike, but it can also put you in danger of a serious accident. However, with the right knowledge and tools, you can easily fix a stuck throttle on your dirt bike.

Possible Causes of a Stuck Throttle:

There are several possible causes of a stuck throttle on a dirt bike, including:

Dirt and Debris: Dirt and debris can accumulate in the throttle tube, causing it to stick or bind.

Corroded Cable: Over time, the throttle cable can become corroded, causing it to stick or bind.

Worn Cable: As the throttle cable wears, it can become frayed or kinked, which can cause it to stick or bind.

Damaged Throttle Tube: A damaged throttle tube can cause the throttle to stick or bind.

Sticky Carburetor Slide: If the carburetor slide is sticky or corroded, it can cause the throttle to stick or bind.

Fixing a Stuck Throttle:

To fix a stuck throttle on your dirt bike, follow these steps:

Assess the Situation: If the throttle is stuck while riding, immediately pull in the clutch and brake and safely pull over to the side of the road.

Inspect the Throttle: Inspect the throttle tube and cable for any visible signs of damage or wear.

Clean the Throttle Tube: If dirt and debris are the cause of the problem, clean the throttle tube with a degreaser and lubricate it with a silicone-based lubricant.

Check the Cable: Check the throttle cable for any signs of corrosion, wear, or damage. If necessary, replace the cable with a new one.

Inspect the Carburetor: Inspect the carburetor slide for any signs of corrosion or damage. If necessary, clean or replace the slide.

Reassemble and Test: Reassemble the throttle and test it to ensure that it is functioning properly.

Preventing a Sticking Throttle:

To prevent a sticking throttle on your dirt bike, follow these maintenance tips:

Clean and Lubricate: Regularly clean and lubricate the throttle tube and cable to prevent dirt and debris from accumulating.

Inspect and Replace: Regularly inspect the throttle cable for signs of wear or damage, and replace it if necessary.

Maintain the Carburetor: Regularly maintain the carburetor to prevent the slide from becoming corroded or sticky.

Check the Throttle Tube: Inspect the throttle tube for any signs of damage, and replace it if necessary.

Conclusion:

A stuck throttle on your dirt bike can be a frightening experience, but with the right knowledge and tools, you can easily fix the problem. By understanding the possible causes of a stuck throttle and following these maintenance tips, you can prevent the problem from occurring in the future and enjoy a safe and enjoyable off-road experience.

The post How to Fix a Stuck Throttle on a Dirt Bike appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

Updated October 2019

The short answer is, yes. Of course you can! You can ride a dirtbike nearly anywhere, that’s the great thing about them. Can you ride a dirt bike on the road legally? Well, that’s where things get a bit more complex. For this article, we’ll focus on the pros and cons of using a dirt bike for street duty and the legality of riding your off-road motorcycle on the street.

Can you ride a dirt bike on the road? Let’s take a look.

But why?

First let’s consider the pros and cons of using a dirt bike for street riding.

Maybe you’ve grown up on dirtbikes, already had one in the garage when you turned 16, and are ready to enjoy the freedoms only the open road can offer now that you’re (almost) an adult, or maybe you just happen to pick up a cheap used dirt bike that you’re hoping to throw some lights on and get registered.

Whatever the reason might be, creating a street-legal thumper out of an off-road motorcycle can be just the ticket to allow you access to a great expanse of riding opportunities not available to your typical street-biased motorcycle. Dirt bikes also typically get pretty good gas mileage for bouncing around town when compared to multi-cylindered gas-guzzlers. Careful though, if you’re planning to convert a motocrosser, you’ll still have short service intervals to keep in mind. The mileage stacks up quicker on-road.

If you’re commuting through a city, the long-travel suspension, nimble handling characteristics and slender physique of a dirt bike can make for the ultimate urban assault vehicle, not to mention a fantastic bug-out bike for the impending zombie apocalypse. Sounds fun, right!? Let’s be sure to consider the full picture.

If you’re planning to undergo the transformation from dirt to dual-purpose, you’ll want to give some thought to the intended use of your whip. If you’re looking for a commuter on which you’ll regularly be forced to ride at freeway speed, your 250cc motocrosser probably isn’t the best tool for the job, or even a 450cc for that matter. Those motorcycles are designed to be raced around a motocross track which means they use high-performance materials and require more frequent maintenance to keep them running at top condition. Winding these guys out on the freeway day after day probably isn’t a good idea in the long run.

Depending on where you’re trying to make your ascension to street-legalness, the amount of money you might have to spend transitioning from off-road only may have you looking toward the used market for an already plated dual-sport motorcycle. There are a few great offerings from manufacturers currently which are basically dirt bikes with turn signals and they hardly give up any off-road prowess for being street-legal. You can look at the used market or maybe that shiny new Honda CRF450L caught your eye when it hit the scene.

Be sure to consider all of your options and thoroughly research your state’s requirements.

Being a law-abiding citizen: What does a dirtbike need to be street legal?

Having the chance of turning your off-road motorcycle into a legal road-going mode of transportation really depends on your geographic location. Oh, you live in sunny, ride-every-day-of-the-year southern California? Not going to happen. Forget about it. Almost anywhere else in the country, you have a better chance as long as you are able to follow some minimum requirements. We’ll outline a few of those basics here, but keep in mind, you’ll need to do some research of your own in regard to your state’s specific requirements to license an off-road motorcycle in order to be sure you’re not wasting your time.

For most states that are going to allow you to make the conversion from off-road only to dual-purpose you are going to need the following:

• A headlight with low and high beam (as well as an indication of when the high beam is on)
• A taillight that is actuated by the front brake lever and the rear brake pedal
• DOT-approved turn signals front and rear
• A rearview mirror (or two)
• A horn

Some of these parts can be easily bolted on to your off-road bike, but if you’re trying to convert a competition dirtbike into a street-legal motorcycle, you’ll have more groundwork to do as these motorcycles are not well-equipped to power much more than a starter button. For these types of dirt bikes, you’ll likely need to add a stator and a battery.

There are plenty of companies that sell “full-conversion kits”, but again, you’ll want to check with your state’s requirements to be sure you’re buying all of what is necessary without spending money on parts you may not need.

So, what have we learned? Can you ride a dirt bike on the road? Yep. Where you live will likely be the deciding factor as to whether or not it’s worth investing into the conversion or if you should just go find yourself a pre-plated dual-sport on the new or used market. Whichever option you end up with, dual-sport riding is the way to go if you want to literally broaden your horizons.

The post Can You Ride a Dirt Bike on the Road? appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

The trails and destinations below give you a number of good options at a variety of skill levels so check them out, and as always, ride safe, wear your gear and ride with a buddy.

1. Kelowna Motocross Track, Kelowna, B.C.

Located in the Okanagan Valley, Kelowna is a beautiful city surrounded by mountain landscape, beautiful lush forest, and provincial parks. The area is a great destination for off-road enthusiasts from all over. The Kelowna Motocross Track is located on the west side of Okanagan Lake, and is open three seasons (spring, summer and fall), weather permitting. The trail is primarily sand and situated in a dry climate; however the Kelowna Dirtbike Club works hard to water down the soil as much as possible. The club also offers a 50cc learning track for children so the entire family can visit, and they’ve built a temporary arena cross track as well. In order to ride here, riders must purchase an annual or a drop in membership (single rider or family pass available). Visit Kelowna Motocross Track for more information.

Where to Stay: Comfort Suites, Kelowna, B.C.

Most dirtbike riders are kids at heart, so why not stay at a hotel when you’re visiting that has…wait for it… a waterslide. The Comfort Suites hotel in Kelowna features an indoor heated pool with waterslide and a hot tub for relaxing after a long day of riding. The hotel offers affordable accommodations including 83 suites with plenty of room for your gear, plus a free hot breakfast in the morning, and pet friendly rooms if needed. The paved parking lot has plenty of space for bikes and trailers if needed. To learn more, visit Comfort Suites, Kelowna, B.C.

2. Blue Mountain / McNutt, Maple Ridge, B.C.

Maple Ridge is located closer to Vancouver, wedged between the Fraser River and Golden Ears Provincial Park. The area is beautiful, and features amazing greenery, mountain views, and lots of activities to partake in, from hiking, swimming, sports, and more. The best riding area located in Maple Ridge, B.C. is referred to as McNutt or Blue Mountain, and is maintained by the Blue Mountain Motorcycle Club. The trail system consists of 120+ km of trails rated moderate to expert depending on the location and elevation. Riders should park on the side of the road the north end of 256^th Street, ride past the yellow gate going north on 256^th Street (gravel road) where you will then see the first trail head. Trails are clearly marked; ADV bikes or dual sports with street tires are not recommended given the challenging single-track trail system. For more information, including a detailed trail map and list of trails, including difficulty levels, visit the Blue Mountain Motorcycle Club.

Where to Stay: Quality Hotel & Conference Centre, Abbotsford, B.C.

Located about 40 km away, the Quality Hotel & Conference Centre is a great option to stay locally while experiencing the amenities of home. A heated indoor pool and hot tub soothes sore muscles after riding, while the onsite White Spot Restaurant offers delicious food featuring local ingredients, where you can sit with your riding buddies and debrief about the day’s ride. As an added bonus, guests of the hotel can enjoy a 10 percent discount at the restaurant. A variety of room options, including suites and pet friendly options, give visitors plenty of choices at this hotel! To learn more, visit: Quality Hotel & Conference Centre, Abbotsford, B.C.

3. Ganaraska Forest, ON

As an Ontarian myself, I’m proud to include the Ganaraska Forest, located outside of Oshawa, Ontario, on this list. Many people overlook the true beauty of Ontario or don’t think of the province as a dirt bike destination; however there is so much more to Ontario than just Niagara Falls. The Ganaraska Forest features an 11,000-acre park just over an hour from Toronto. Riders need an annual forest membership or day pass to ride from May 1-Nov. 30. Motorized use of the park is permitted in the West and East Forest areas, however riders are cautioned as these are multi-use areas shared with horseback riders or hikers. There are several areas to park vehicles and trailers in the park in the West and East Forest areas. For more information, visit the Ganaraska Forest Centre.

Where to Stay: Comfort Inn, Oshawa, ON

Located just over 30 minutes from Ganaraska Forest, this hotel features a paved parking lot with ample space for vehicles and trailers, plus a free hot breakfast in the morning. Rooms are equipped with a microwave and refrigerator, plus other amenities, to ensure your stay feels like home. Enjoy a good night sleep at this hotel so you can rest up and ride the following day! To book this hotel, visit: Comfort Inn, Oshawa, ON.

4. Inks Lake, Kamloops, B.C.

Kamloops is located northwest of Kelowna, nestled where the North and South Thompson rivers connect. Known as ‘Canada’s Tournament Capital’ the city takes pride in supporting the sporting community, and offers a wide variety of outdoor activities for residents and visitors. Inks Lake trails, sometimes referred to as Outer Inks Lakes Trails, are part of the Duffy Greenstone Trail system featuring a total of 132 km of singletrack and doubletrack riding. Inks Lake Trails are located on the east side of Greenstone Mountain, and consist of a combination of old roads and off-road tracks, including singletrack riding. Riders can easily access the riding area by driving down Inks Lakes Road, past the highway maintenance yard to an intersection. The road on the right is the access route for the riding area. Trails are rated easy-to-moderate with access to more challenging riding as well. For more information, click HERE.

Where to Stay: Comfort Inn & Suites, Kamloops, B.C.

Located within 30 minutes is the Comfort Inn & Suites Kamloops. This hotel also features an indoor pool, hot tub and waterslide, free hot breakfast, and additional amenities like a mini fridge, microwave, free Wifi and more. Rest your head after a long day of riding on the comfortable pillows, or if you still have energy, check out many of the nearby sights and activities in Kamloops. For more information, visit Comfort Inn & Suites, Kamloops, B.C.

5. Motopark, Chatsworth, ON

Located in Southwestern Ontario, this small town may be remote, but it’s home to one of the first motocross training facilities in Canada. Chatsworth is known for its quaint community, surrounded by lush forests, lakes, streams, and the Niagara escarpment. Just two hours from Toronto, this area is just a short drive for those wanting to check out one of the major motocross tracks in the country. The 100-acre Motopark offers a variety of riding options for dirt-bikers, including three tracks rated beginner, intermediate and advance. The facility offers bike rentals, training, motocross camps, and additional activities including paintball and a bicycle adventure park so there’s something for everyone! The park is open to the public, five days a week (closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays) and is a great place to check out and explore. For more information, visit Motoparkracing.com.

Where to Stay: Comfort Inn, Owen Sound

Rest up at the newly refreshed accommodations at the Comfort Inn in Owen Sound, located 20 minutes from Motopark and close to attractions like the Billy Bishop Museum, and Inglis Falls. It offers free breakfast, truck and trailer parking, pet-friendly rooms with premium bedding and climate control and its location minutes from the Owen Sound Harbor make this hotel an ideal place to stay when visiting the area.

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Riding motorcycles off-road is one of the most fun things you can do on two wheels. If you haven’t tried it already, we seriously urge you to give it a shot; we can almost guarantee you’ll love it. Dirtbikes, though, are different from street bikes in a lot of ways. All the fundamentals and mechanics of riding them are the same, but they’re stripped of pretty much anything that isn’t necessary – a bare-bones bike, if you will – which is great, because there’s fewer things to break and replace when (not if) they get dumped in the dirt. Also, they’re lighter, which makes picking them up off the ground easier, too. Additionally, there’s the terrain to deal with, which of course can be bumpy, rocky, loose and uneven. Because of this, dirtbikes have much higher ground clearance and more suspension travel than street bikes, which as a consequence, results in taller seat heights. This, of course, is one of the biggest obstacles the vertically challenged can encounter, and it makes it harder to build your off-road confidence.

If you happen to be on the shorter side of the spectrum, which we assume you are since you’re reading this, don’t fret! Not only are there options for you, there’s plenty to look forward to and get inspired by as well. Ricky Carmichael – The GOAT – short for Greatest Of All Time (no pun intended, ha!), has a dirtbike racing championship resume longer than a CVS receipt, and there are amusement park rides even he can’t ride. Just kidding, but he stands 5-foot-5, which is probably similar to many of you. So, there’s hope, I tell ya!

Dirtbikes get bigger and taller as their engine displacement goes up. There’s no short-version 450cc bikes, unfortunately. Still, there’s hope, and you too can one day work your way up to ripping the big-bore bikes with the big boys, but in the meantime, you’ll have to get comfortable on something smaller first. And believe me, there’s nothing that will steer you away from dirtbikes quicker than jumping onto and starting off on a bike that’s too big and too powerful. It will be an overwhelming and miserable experience, trust me, and we don’t want that.

SEE ALSO: Best Beginner Dirtbikes for Adults

Learning to ride dirtbikes, improving your skills and conquering your fears through obstacles you thought weren’t possible is one of the most fulfilling feelings you can experience. The beauty of riding off-road, if you’re somewhat persistent about it, is that you get incrementally better each and every time you go out, and this gratifying feeling of success and achievement is what keeps you coming back. On top of that, you get to go out to explore and see places you otherwise might not ever get to experience. What’s not to love about that? So, where do you start?

Well, it all depends… Probably not the answer you were looking for, but it really boils down to three things: What type of riding you intend on doing (trail or motocross), your current riding ability level, and of course, how tall you are. These three factors will determine the direction you’ll want to take when looking for a dirtbike that’s going to fit you and your needs best. Odds are, you’re most likely starting out, and fortunately, there’s a ton of options.

The easiest and most fun way to start riding dirtbikes is on trail-oriented bikes rather than motocross bikes. Honda and Yamaha have the most complete lineup of smaller dirtbikes designed to help learning riders build their confidence. Just about the whole Honda off-road line carries the CRF model designation now, but you’ll want to look for the models that end in F, not R or X, such as the CRF150F or CRF230F. The R signifies bigger, more powerful competition bikes and the X is for full-sized trail bikes; you’ll want to stay away from those for now. Yamaha has its TT-R trail bike line, and these are the models you’ll want to pay attention to (you can ignore the R in this case, Yamaha’s YZ line is its competition line). Suzuki and Kawasaki have options too, but they’re more limited. Both focus on either smaller-cc bikes for children mostly or bigger competition bikes, but if you’re really a smaller or shorter rider, they most likely have an option for you.

Best Dirtbikes for Short Riders

Being a vertically-challenged rider, you’re going to want a bike you can sit on with both feet on the ground. You don’t have to be completely flat footed, but you don’t want to be tip-toeing it either. As long as you fall somewhere in the middle and have good stability, you’ll be fine, unless you’ve never ridden before. Then we would suggest something you can easily flat-foot on. For most shorter adult-sized riders, depending on how tall you are, you’re most likely going to fit best on either Honda’s CRF150F (32.8 in seat height) or CRF230F (34.6 in), and similarly on Yamaha’s TT-R125LE (31.7 in) or TT-R230 (34.3 in). All four bikes make our list of best dirtbikes for short riders because they feature electric start and are as user friendly as they come.

Kawasaki offers its KLX140L (31.5 in) and KLX140G (33.9 in) models too, which also feature a convenient electric start, and Suzuki has its DR-Z125L (32 in), but it’s kickstart only – something beginner riders could potentially get frustrated with. For a beginner rider, especially off-road, you’re going to be stalling the bike a lot at first, and there’s nothing that will take the wind out of your sails faster than continuously having to kickstart the bike over and over. That little magic e-start button on the right handlebar is priceless.

The 230 models are really great options for a number of reasons, if you can comfortably fit on them. They’re smaller than the full-size 250s, whose seat heights stand almost 38 inches tall, but they’re the perfect last stepping stone before ultimately graduating, if you eventually feel comfortable enough after mastering the 230. Also, the 230s’ air-cooled motors don’t produce nearly as much power as liquid-cooled 250s do, which will definitely help you work on and refine your skills. And don’t worry, they still produce plenty of power to get you just about anywhere. On top of that, these Honda and Yamaha motors are virtually indestructible. I’ve seen them run under water – seriously – and for a lot longer than I would have ever imagined, only to fire right back up and continue on down the trail. And their maintenance requirements are much less stringent than the competition machines.

If the 230 is still too big, the 150, 140 or 125 is your ticket. All you have to do is pretty much pick your favorite color. These bikes are also incredibly capable, despite their smaller displacement. My girlfriend is 5-foot-3 and she’s been riding a Honda CRF150F for the last two years. She recently hopped on a 230 to take for a spin. She loved it, but after returning, said there’s still much to be learned on the 150 before moving up. Remember, there’s no shame whatsoever in riding a smaller bike that fits your needs and abilities best. In fact, riding a bigger, more powerful bike you’re not ready for yet only increases your chances of getting hurt, and nobody wants that.

Trail riding is awesome because you can do it just about anywhere, but maybe you’re more interested in motocross. Fortunately, there are MX options for you shorter riders out there, too. And of course, motocross bikes will feel as at home on the trail as trail bikes, however, trail bikes will reach their limits sooner on the track. Motocross bikes are designed for jumping, more so than trail bikes, so their suspension components are bigger and stronger, delivering more travel as well. They’re also lighter and more powerful too – which is great – but as a compromise, they will require more maintenance, and they’re kickstart only – though the new Yamaha YZ250F has the magic e-start button. Just some things to consider.

Honda’s smallest motocrosser is its CRF150R (notice the R model designation in this case), which has a 32.8-inch tall seat height. There’s also the CRF150R Expert, featuring bigger wheels, a higher seat and longer swingarm. The CRF150R is the only four-stroke motocrosser in this category, all the other bikes are two-strokes. Yamaha has its YZ85 (33.1 in), Suzuki has the RM85 (33.5 in), Kawasaki has two: the KX85 (32.7 in) and the slightly bigger KX100 (34.3 in). And if you’re really serious about getting into racing, KTM offers its 85 SX (33.7 in) and Husqvarna has the TC 85 (33.5 in).

All these bikes are much lighter, faster and higher performing than their trail-focused counterparts, however, they’re all much less forgiving when mistakes are made, and again, they’re all kickstart only. We recommend these bikes only to shorter riders with more experience.

In the end, like we mentioned before, determining the right dirtbike for you essentially comes down to three factors: What type of riding you intend on doing (trail or motocross), your current riding ability level, and of course, how tall you are. Dirtbiking is some of the best fun you could possibly have, but a lot of it comes down to riding a bike that fits you and your needs best. Becoming a better off-road rider is long process, but it’s an incredibly fun and rewarding one as well. Choosing a dirbike that fits your riding goals, ability and size can be the deciding factor between some of the most fun you’ll ever have with a lifetime full of awesome memories, or a lot of potential pain and frustration. Which one of those sounds like the better option?

Go down to your local powersports dealer and sit on some bikes – heck, sit on them all! – and find out what fits you best and what you think feels most comfortable, or pick the bike with your favorite color plastic. As long as the bike fits you properly, you’re going to have a great time. We can almost guarantee it.

For more info, visit:

Honda

Yamaha

Kawasaki

Suzuki

KTM

Husqvarna

The post Ten Best Dirtbikes for Short Riders appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

Well, one way would be to grab a dirt bike, fire it up, hold it wide open, and if it doesn’t completely spit you off at that point, you’ve chosen wisely.

Seriously, though, there are a few things to think about when figuring out how to choose a dirt bike that will not only be fun right from the start but also one that can grow right along with you.

1: The first thing to consider when considering how to choose a dirt bike is ypur experience and skill level. Just because you rode your buddy’s Harley around the block once does not qualify you for the average high-performance 450cc or larger motocross or off-road machine. Oh sure, you can ride that one around the block are maybe mosey down a few trails, but without solid experience, you’d better have good health insurance.

That’s why we recommend sticking with bikes in the 200-250cc range for newbies seeking out how to choose a dirt bike. There are plenty of great models out there, and some of them can be purchased second hand for bargain prices if you shop smartly. You can check out our 10 Great Used Dirt Bike Buys guide or peruse Rick “Super Hunky” Sieman’s advice in What’s The Best Used Dirt Bike? And if you’re going to buy new, there’s nothing wrong with side-stepping a hyper-handling motocrosser or off-road machine in favor of an adult-sized trail bike. Even with all of the latest and greatst moto hardware at our disposal, some of our most memorable rides happen on these super-fun, quiet and easy-to-ride models. The key point here is to know your experience level and not get in over your head so that you don’t wind up on your head.

2: During my fornmative dirt bike years, I was once told that if you can’t pick it up after you’ve dropped it, you probably shouldn’t be riding it. That’s partially true, but I also learned some extremely painful lessons by choosing the wrong bike for my size when I was 15 years old. After selling a perfectly good running 1981 Yamaha YZ80, I made the not so subtle step up to a 1985 Husqvarna TC 500. Big mistake. Sure, I could pick it up, and I learned to ride it proficiently, but the Husqvarna was such a massive machine that I spent a lot of time picking it up after everything from simple tip-overs when I couldn’t put my feet down to massive endoes and lightning-fast loop-outs. My friends actually started calling me Evel Knievel for all the times I ate it. Point is, you should select a bike that fits your frame. If you can’t get at least the toes of booth feet firmly planted on the ground, then you may be dealing with a bike that is physically too large for you.

3: On the other side of that coin, if you’re 6 feet tall and tip the scales near 200 lbs., riding a great beginner bike such as a Kawasaki KLX140G or a Honda CRF125L isn’t going to be much fun either. Sure, it may make enough power, but you’re likely going to be riding around with your knees tucked under your chin, or worse, banging the handlebars. On top of that, when you get brave enough to actually take to the air on your first jump (we all do), you’re likely to seriously bottom the suspension on such a small bike. This is where a machine such as a Honda CRF250X begins to make a lot of sense. It’s a full-size bike with a pretty forging power curve, and as your experience level grows you can modify the X with an aftermarket pipe, cam and some ECU mods to create a true competition-worthy dirt bike.

So when figuring out how to choose a dirt bike that will be right for you, remember to consider these three points. Be honest with yourself and don’t be afraid to err a little right or left of center when choosing a bike. You just want to avoid taking a leap of faith over which you could come up woefully short.

The post How to Choose a Dirt BIke: Three Basic Tips appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

Back when most dirt bike tire sizes were displayed in inches for both the width and diameter, it was easy-peasy. They knew that a 4.50-5.00″ x 18″ tire was best for a 250-500cc machine, while 4.00″ x 18″ was best for a 250cc machine and a 3.50-3.75″ x 18″ tire was best for a 125cc two-stroke. But then the tire manufacturers made a wholesale switch to the metric system, making it a bit more difficult to decipher dirt bike tire sizes by eye-balling the good old ‘Merican measurement in inches. While it still isn’t that difficult to understand basic dirt bike tire sizes when simply replacing your OEM tire with a tire whose metric sizing is identical, what if you want to go to a slightly wider or narrower width to suit your application? What do those numbers on the side of the tire actually mean?

Understanding Aspect Ratio
Dirt bike tire sizes are most often expressed on the sidewall of the tire with a series of numbers separated by a slash mark ( / ) and then a dash behind the second number ( – ) before the final number, which corresponds to the rim diameter size. So, for example, looking at a typical dirt bike rear tire you’ll see a number that reads something like 110/90-19 or 120/80-19 (the numbering on the front tires will be similar and usually end with a -21). So which one is right for you? The answer may be both. Or neither. But deciphering the actual numbers may help you make a more informed decision.

The first number, in this case 110 or 120, is the measurement of the widest distance between the sidewalls of the tire, in millimeters. Thus, a 120 tire measures 120mm wide while a 110mm measures wide. Doing a little math, we can calculate the actual width of the tire in inches by taking these three-digit numbers and dividing them by 25.4. Thus, a 110mm tire measures a little more than 4.3 inches in width (4.330 inches), and the 120mm tire measures a little more than 4.7 inches in width (4.724).

However, the second number is also important because it refers to the sidewall aspect ratio. In the case of our two examples the aspect ratio numbers are 90 and 80 respectively. The aspect ratio denotes the tire’s sidewall height, but it is not a millimeter measurement. Instead, it is a percentage measurement, telling us that the tires sidewall height from rim to tread is 90 percent of the 110mm wide tire’s section width and 80 percent of the 120mm tire’s section width. Doing some more math, we can take the first tire’s width of 4.330 inches and multiply it by 90 percent to determine that the 110mm tire’s sidewall height is just under 3.9 inches (3.897) and the 120mm tire’s sidewall height is just under 3.8 inches (3.779). Thus, while the 110mm tire is narrower, it’s also taller. When comparing two tires of the same width, a tire with a largerr aspect ratio number will be taller than a tire with a smaller aspect ratio number.

But what about when they’re different sizes? All things being equal (in other words, assuming that both tires feature the same ply rating, the 110mm tire will exhibit more sidewall flex than the 120mm tire even though the 120mm tire puts more tread on the ground. If we put that into perspective using the trends in the high-performance automobile tire world, the trend has been to go wider and stiffer for increased on-road traction. These tires, with their rubberband-width sidewalls deliver the flex of your average rock when driven over rough ground, yet they exhibit traction that can pretty much blow away many slick tires with much taller sidewalls.

That said, your performance may vary when it comes to dirt bike tire sizes, as there are other factors to consider, such as tire pressure, dirt conditions and the load factor on the tire. In the case of the former, that’s why every manufacturer offer several models with various knobby patterns as well as numerous compounds within tire models of the same knobby pattern to optimize traction for the conditions you’re most likely to encounter. We could discuss compound variations–usually referred to as Soft, Intermediate and Hard–but that’s a whole other story. When in doubt, however, go for the Intermediate compound, which is generally specified by the various tire manufacturers as the closest thing to their all-around or do-it-all tire.

When dealing with tire sizes for your particular bike, it’s also important to consider engine size and potential power output. In other words, you’d be crazy to stick a 120mm wide tire on a 125cc two-stroke because the weight and amount of tread that tire puts on the ground may be a negative because it saps more power and makes your engine work harder to spin the tire than a narrower tire that may not yield as much overall traction. Remember, a little wheel spin isn’t a bad thing. By the same token, sticking a skinny 90mm tire on a ground-shredding 450cc four-stroke may lead to a lack of traction and premature knobby wear.

So, how do you know what dirt bike tire sizes are best for your application? Simple. Step one is to consult your owner’s manual for tire size recommendations. Step two would be to consult the manufacturer of the tire brand you are thinking of purchasing, as they can steer you in the right direction by recommending not only proper dirt bike tire sizes but also the optimum compound for your part of the country–trust us, they’ve got loads of data on this stuff. Another thing you can do is cruise the pits at your local motocross or off-road race and see what tire models and sizes your competition is running. Any or all of these suggestions should put you in the hunt.

The post How Dirt Bike Tire Sizes Work: Breaking Down Numbers appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

Still, many dirttbikes equipped with the Mikuni round slide run poorly or are hard to start. A basic understanding of this carb will make life a whole lot easier. And, if nothing else, making your vintage dirt bike (or late-model dirt bike) easier to start and less prone to fouling plugs, will be worth the time to learn a few things.

WARM VERSUS COLD
When an engine is warmed up, it usually restarts easily. Just open the throttle part way, boot it, and it starts. However, when it’s cold, the problem is that gasoline drawn into the engine tends to remain in liquid form and not evaporate. To create a combustible mixture in the cylinder, some of the fuel has to evaporate and make a vapor. The vapor mixes with the air, and when the ratios are correct, it can be ignited with ignition spark

Some carbs, such as Bings or Amals, have a little plunger on the side, called a tickler. When you push down on it, it reaches into the float bowl and forces the float downward. This opens up the float valve and lets gasoline flow into the bowl until you release the tickler button. This causes the fuel level in the bowl to be too high for normal operation, but just fine for priming the engine.

When you kick over the engine, the airflow through the venturi passage can pick up the extra gasoline, because the fuel level is higher in the bowl. With the extra fuel, it can be sucked up, and out into, the air stream more easily. If your mixture is way too rich, or you prime it too much, you just might foul a spark plug, especially with a two-stroke. You can spot a fouled plug by the plug tip wet with fuel, and it doesn’t spark.

You’ll have to pull out the wet plug and replace it with a dry one, properly gapped. Kick it once or twice without priming any more, and it should start. If you don’t have a spare plug handy, open the throttle fully and kick it a few times without priming it any more. This lets in a lot of air and not much gasoline, and with any luck, it’ll dry out in there and you can finally get it started.

The Mikuni simplifies the priming process by using a standard primer control lever, a.k.a. a choke.

DON’T OPEN THAT THROTTLE WHEN USING THE CHOKE!
When the choke on a Mikuni round slide is closed, the starting circuit is shut off. Sometimes, when the temperature is very cold, you may have to use the choke lever for a few minutes while the bike warms up. However, if you leave it on too long, you might end up with that fouled plug we talked about earlier.

What makes high vacuum behind the throttle slide, is the fact that you are cranking the engine with the throttle slide closed. Leave the throttle completely closed until the engine starts. If you can’t resist opening the throttle with a spastic reaction every time your kicking foot moves down, try putting your right thumb in your mouth. If you insist on opening the throttle, the vacuum behind it disappears and the starting carb will not work. Most of the hard starting of Mikuni-equipped bikes is often caused by this right-hand syndrome.

CHOKE MECHANISM
This is different than a choke primer, in that a choke mechanism is a mechanical slide that lives up in the top of the carb, and can be moved down into the main air passage in front of the carb slide. Also, many chokes have a little trap door held closed by a spring. When you’re cranking the engine with the choke closed, the door springs open just the right amount to allow the necessary amount of air to come in.

There aren’t any special fuel or air passages with a choke of this type. When the choke plate is lowered into the air path, fuel will come up out of the needle jet and enrich the mixture for starting. The position of the throttle slide doesn’t make much difference, because this system doesn’t rely on a closed throttle slide to create high vacuum behind it.

AFTER THE BIKE IS STARTED
Once you get the thing lit off, the bike now has to idle. The idle system on all conventional carburetors is exactly like the starting carb, except it doesn’t have a lever to turn it on and off. It works anytime the throttle slide is closed (or nearly closed) and there is sufficient vacuum behind the slide to pull idle mixture out through a small hole, which is also just behind the slide–on the bottom of the air passage, usually.

The screw that sticks into the idle air passage is called the pilot air screw, or the idle air screw. The jet that limits fuel flow into the idle circuit is usually called the pilot jet or idle jet. Sometimes the air screw and associated jet are called the slow-running screw and jet.

The idle mixture is controlled by two controls: a throttle stop screw and an idle air screw. The throttle stop screw goes into the side of the carb right beside the throttle slide. It limits how much the slide can close. The slide is never fully closed, so some air ducks under it and flows into the engine when you think the throttle is closed. You adjust the throttle stop screw for the idle speed you want and the idle air screw for mixture strength at that idle speed. These two controls interact. A good adjustment procedure is as follows:

Turn the idle speed up a little higher than you want it to be, using the throttle stop screw. Now turn the idle air or pilot air screw inwards until the engine runs poorly. Usually turning this screw inwards makes the idle mixture richer, and when the engine begins to stumble it’s because of a too-rich mixture. Stop turning the screw inward when the engine acts like it is about to quit running. Start backing it out and count half-turns of the screw as you do it.

The engine should speed up as you back the idle air screw out and then start slowing down as you continue backing it out. When it runs poorly, stop backing it out. Count the number of half-turns you made while backing the screw out from run-poorly to run-poorly. Set the idle air screw halfway between these extremes, or at a nearby setting where the engine runs fastest. Back out the throttle stop screw to reduce the idle speed to what you want. Then re-check the idle air screw adjustment and reset to the place where the engine idles fastest or smoothest.

DIALING IN THE PILOT JET
The pilot or idle jet should be the right size to allow you to perform the idle adjustment. If you can’t get it to idle properly, you might have the wrong size jet. Here’s how to tell: Let’s say you’re turning the idle air screw in and it should be making the mixture too rich. The engine speed keeps increasing until finally you have the screw turned all the way in, and it’s running best right there. By the time you get the screw turned all the way in, the mixture should have been much too rich. So you can figure that the idle jet is too small, and needs the next size larger.

If you back out the idle air screw and the engine just keeps running faster and faster until finally the screw falls out of the carb, it tells you the idle jet is too big and is letting too much fuel through. Install a smaller (leaner) one.

THE IDLE SYSTEM IS CRITICAL TO OVERALL PERFORMANCE
The idle system is part of the carb’s entire operating system. By opening the throttle slide, the main system is supposed to take over and the idle system is supposed to decrease delivery of mixture. The transition between these two systems is critical to good performance when you first crack the throttle, and on up to about one-eighth open.

There are two factors that aid transition from the idle system to the main system. One is the setting of the idle system itself. Some mechanics set the idle as described and then test throttle response by whacking open the throttle. They try slightly different idle air screw settings to see what gives the best throttle response off idle.

THROTTLE SLIDES
The part that affects throttle response coming off idle, is the throttle slide cutaway. Most slides have a V-shaped section removed from the bottom of the throttle slide, with the open end of the V facing toward the mouth of the carb. The amount of cutaway is indicated by a number stamped on the slide. A higher number means more cutaway.

More cutaway makes the mixture lean. Less cutaway makes it richer. If your engine hesitates when you open the throttle part way, and seems to hesitate briefly before giving you a surge of power, the off-idle mixture may be too lean. Try a throttle slide with less cutaway.

If your Mikuni stumbles when you crack the throttle wide-open, it isn’t throttle slide cutaway. Why? Because when the slide is quickly pulled up, cutaway doesn’t have a chance to affect the transition.

MAIN JET SELECTION
The Main jet is a small jet in the bottom of the float bowl, located in the center. It’s actually the easiest of all the Jets to choose. All you have to do is run full throttle for a minute or so and then take the plug out and get a reading. If the plug is black and oily looking, the main jet is too rich and you should put a smaller number in. If the spark plug is white or gray looking, you’re too lean and you must go to a larger number main jet. As long as you get that spark plug out and find a tan color on the tip, you’re probably okay.

That’s about all you need to know on the Mikuni round slide, a carburetor that we’ve all seen at one time or another. Once you get it dialed in, your bike should start easy and run clean throughout the entire range. Is it any wonder then, that all sorts of bikes that came with other carbs get switched to a round slide Mikuni?

The post How-To Set Up A Mikuni Round Slide Carburetor appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

Let’s say you’re riding your dirt bike or ATV in the hills near where you live, at a place you’ve been using for years, and all of a sudden an officer of the law fixes you with a steely-eyed glare and motions you over to his idling squad car with a crooked finger. What do you do?

Should you just slap your dirt bike into gear and run for it? Or should you try to talk to the officer first and find out what he wants? But what if he wants to give you an off-road citation? What if he starts swearing at you, calling you names, threatening you with multiple offenses?

WHAT ARE YOUR RIGHTS?
First off, any law officer who stops you to issue an off-road citation, or to even question you, must tell you why he is doing so. You have the right to ask him what laws you are violating and what specific offenses, if any, you are committing.

If you are doing anything allegedly more serious than a traffic violation and are subject to actual arrest, you must be read your rights. Some policemen will attempt to bill a simple off-road-riding excursion as a multiple misdemeanor. If you are on private property, you have the right to ask the arresting officer who’s property you are on. If he can’t tell you where you are at the time, his citation may be worthless.

POSSIBLE OFFENSES
No one gives you a ticket for “riding a dirt bike in the hills.” Off-road citations are much more specific, and more often than not, may never even mention the phrase “riding a dirt bike.”

Here are some of the most common things listed on an off-road citation:
· Trespassing,
· Destruction of property
· No license on vehicle
· No green sticker (a California specialty)
· No spark arrester
· Fire hazards
· Noise violations
· Reckless operation of a motor vehicle
· Riding in a closed area
· Dust violations
· Destruction of the environment, and so forth.

Many of the violations will be phrased differently, but it’s safe to say that most citations will be covered in one of the above.

When you do get an off-road citation, the arresting officer can simply write down one offense, but if he has been directed to “crack down” on off-roaders, chances are you’ll see multiple offenses on the citation, some of them making no sense whatsoever.

The reasoning behind this is simple. The judge will drop, or offer to drop, several of the charges while you plead guilty to one of them. Most people are so intimidated by multiple offenses on a citation that they are relieved to “get off” with only one count.

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO IN COURT
If you feel that you should not have received the citation or that it might have been illegal, by all means, fight the ticket. However, if you were a real jerk and were riding next to some homes and bothering people, then pay the ticket and learn your lesson.

Normally, the first time you go to court, unless you plead guilty or no-contest, you will not get to fight the ticket. The judge will give you a later date to appear. This will vary from one jurisdiction to another, so find out ahead of time how your particular system works.

You should seek the advice of an attorney, even if he does not represent you in court. He can give you some solid advice just by looking at your citation and asking you a few questions. This will cost you some money, but you might be ahead spending the money on a lawyer, rather than merely paying what might be an expensive ticket. Some states will list the off-road citation on your driving record, perhaps jeopardizing your license, or raising your insurance rates for a long time to come.

Ideally, it’s best to have a lawyer with you. When you do appear before the judge, photos of the area where you were busted might be helpful, especially if they show the lack of signs. By the way, not all “No Trespassing” signs are legal. Your lawyer can explain local ordinances to you.

The judge might offer to drop three charges if you plead guilty to one. This could indicate that most, if not all, of the charges are weak.

Before you appear in court, find out who owns the land. It’s possible that you can get a written permission slip from the land owner to ride there, even if you have to pay him for it. Read that again: If you can show the judge a permission slip to ride on the area in question, you’re home free!

If it’s state land and you got a ticket from a city cop, he has no jurisdiction there, and the citation should be worthless.

Often, spark arrester and registration citations are worthless. Simply producing proof of ownership of the bike will stifle a possible charge. If some of the charges are ludicrous, demand that the arresting officer offer proof.

Destruction of property is a common citation, but if the riding area is a baked-dry piece of ground, and you have photos of it, the destruction charge could be dropped.

WHY YOU SHOULD FIGHT
Too many citations are taken for granted. The judge is not used to many people fighting a ticket. The courts are jammed and overloaded, and you might get the charges dropped if you show a willingness to fight for your rights.

Years ago, in the San Fernando Valley (in Los Angeles), hundreds of citations were issued to dirt bike and ATV riders in a big push, and they were processed like tuna in a canning factory. What if all of those off-roaders had chosen to fight the tickets?

Then think about this: in many courts, if the arresting officer does not show up, the charges are often dismissed.

Don’t make the mistake of assuming that the fine will be small enough not to hurt you financially. We’ve heard of off-road riding tickets that fell into the $500-800 range.

GENERAL ADVICE
If several riders got an off-road citation at the same time, you can split the cost of an attorney to make it more affordable. If you do go to court, make sure that you look presentable. Appearing in a cut-off Levi’s jacket with a Mohawk haircut will do you no good whatsoever in front of a judge.

Be polite and don’t mouth off or make groundless accusations. Be prepared and have whatever materials you need with you on your day in court. Maps, photos and letters will all lend weight to your case.

Listen to your attorney and don’t try to play Perry Mason. If he tells you that it’s hopeless and you should settle for one charge and the others will be dropped, do it. More often than not, only one charge is valid. Or possibly valid. The judge knows this.

Sure, it’s expensive and time-consuming to go to court and fight for your rights, but if the police realize that none of the off-roaders in your area will put up a squawk, they’ll continue to harass and bust the riders, right and left.

The best thing you can do is to take preventive measures. If you ride in an area, stay away from houses and people. “Out of sight, out of mind” is a valuable proverb.

Try to get permission from the land owner, even if it’s only verbal. Few land owners will be willing to give written permission, due to the sue-happy nature of our society.

Ride a quiet bike and don’t irritate anyone.

But if you do get busted, and you know you weren’t breaking any laws, fight it!

The post Rick Sieman: What To Do if You Get an Off-Road Citation appeared first on Dirt Bikes.

6. Now that you know the rules, think carefully and have at it!

SUBJECT: REMEMBER BIG DADDY ROTH?

Dear Mr. Sieman:

I hope my e-mail finds you well. I’m publishing a Harley and British bike-oriented magazine in Finland, named Kopteri. I’ve been doing this since 1992. I read many years ago your very interesting book Monkey Butt. From that I remember that on your early career you worked for a while for Ed Roth’s Choppers Magazine.

Now we are making an Ed Roth story in Kopteri. I came to think, do you happen to have any photos of late Mr. Roth or his motorcycles, or other staff working for the Choppers Magazine or “Roth Studios”?

If any photo material of that kind exists, I would be interested in publishing in Kopteri magazine.

With respect,
Mala Malk
Kopteri magazine

Your email sure brings back some memories. Let me fill in some blanks for you. In 1969, I was working for Big Bike magazine, at the time as an ad salesman. One day I told the boss I was going to go and talk to Big Daddy Roth about buying some ads, and he told me not to waste my time, as he had guys down there repeatedly trying to sell him, and all they got was a hard no. I figured what the hell, I was going to try anyway, plus I always wanted to meet Roth.

As it turned out, Bill Golden, the owner of our publishing company decided to make Choppers a regular full-size magazine, based on the fact that Big Bike was selling so well. So before I knew it, I was the ad salesman for Big Bike and Choppers magazine. Never did work for Ed, though.–Rick Sieman

***

SUBJECT: BOOK REVIEW!

You have a new product review waiting.
Product: MONKEY BUTT!
Author: Rick Sieman
Reviewer: Mark J. Palmeri
Rating: 5
Review Text: Hilarious truths! In an era of abstract fluidity, simple progressive innovations like folding brake and shift levers or 1-inch lift improvements to motorcycle suspensions were enough to keep a young dirt biker like me away from a consuming world of new-age depravity and keenly focused on the trails and tracks ahead of me. If you rode a dirt bike in the ’60s ’70s, ’80s and beyond, this book is a MUST READ!

Sincere thanks for all the good words. Monkey Butt encapsulated all those early years so you know what really happened. I have a feeling that long after I’m gone, people will want to read that to find out what happened during that period of time.–Rick Sieman

***

SUBJECT: HODAKA SPECIAL

Rick:

Long time no see! I trust you’re well. I need a favor if you don’t mind.

After 30+ years of searching, I finally located and bought the bike. I’m told you did a couple articles on it. One for Dirt Bike and another for
Old Bike Journal. I could sure use copies of both to get the restoration right. Can you help?

Thanks and a Merry Christmas to you,
Lee Fabry

Found what you needed in a 1974 Dirt Bike. A disk is on its way.–Rick Sieman

***

SUBJECT: YZ SWINGARMS

Super Hunky,

Read my first Dirt Bike mag back in 1971 and have been a fan since. A question I have long had is, were the swingarms on pro=level works
bikes for ’80 & ’81 YZs extended a bit in length? Was Hannah’s arm different than stock, and Mikkola’s? What about the frame rake? Any difference here? Maybe they had custom T-clamps.

Can you shed any light?

Thanks,
David Farrell

There were any number of swingarms available for the works YZs. When Paul Clipper and I went out to Holiday Hills to photograph with the Yamaha team and Bob Hannah, they had two semis full of bikes and innumerable swingarms. During the day, Bob had a chance to ride with all sorts of swingarms and frames on the various bikes. This was normal on factory bikes.–Rick Sieman

***

SUBJECT: THE GOOD OLD DAYS

This is a letter of thanks and gratitude in appreciation of the writings of Mr. Rick Siema, former editor of Dirt Bike magazine.

Rick’s professionalism, compelling comic writing and wealth of personality which he brought to Dirt Bike during his editorship have in it’s genre, in my opinion never been equaled!

Additionally, the book’s colorful characters: S. Hunky, Clipper, the Wolfman, and Mr. Know-It-All, (all interlocked in competitive rivalry) added a comic and charmingly personable dimension to what might otherwise have been just another dryly written motorsports magazine.

As a boy I read every word of each publication of several years, dating from November ’81, and became familiar with the R. Sieman style to the point where I could identify it in writings not containing his byline. I feel it worth mentioning that I Xeroxed my own “compendium” of Ricks editorials as well!

His creative similes, ironic juxtapositions, and observational wit had me laughing, reading a second time, and laughing again! His writings are peppered with tickling lines such as “Even the least experienced riders preferred it in “high performance mode” as with the exhaust restrictor in place, it puts out less power then a clogged shaver.”

Nor was the reader himself ever safely outside the fray of Rick’s humor, with the intentional misspellings (Dirt Bique) incomplete sentences (“it looks like it was designed by a” )! and bogus articles now and again; effectively placing the joke on the reader and generating a good laugh for the most of us, not to mention a spate of angry mail (which when reported upon had me laughing all the harder!).

This fresh style of cheeky, practical humor, where the joke was as often on the reader, I’d never seen in a mainstream mag before, but once I “got it,” I was hooked, and in retrospect laud D.B. for their daring to affront some to create the best humor in any magazine I’ve hitherto read! Memorable examples included the Greeves article, or the Harley touring bike in a dirt test, along with running gags such as the renown of the “incredibly accurate Dirt Bike scales” (plus or minus however many flicks per BIC) and where a new description of its legendary accuracy was offered up with each every reference to it! Or the haughty “Mr. Know-It-All,” whom pushed the boundaries of reader offense to new heights; to the equally heightened amusement of the book’s readership!

Some of the more subtle of the magazine’s touches, too, such as the small cartoons found in the margins of a limited number of editions are noteworthy as well. They were tiny enough to go unnoticed by some, yet noticeable enough to disconcert others! There was a delightfully inappropriate quality to their presence, quite in keeping with that brand of sly, yet kind-hearted humor I’d come to appreciate from the magazine. Too bad they were only a temporary feature, but when it comes to humor, transience is a sterling virtue, as humor is a perishable that spoils quickly under routine!

Thank you Mr. Sieman and staff for all the good fun you brought to me and my friends! Plus the best in motorcycle journalism, editorials and photos ever to find their way into print! Yours will forever remain, unequivocally, my favorite magazine of all time!

Monte Saatchi

(a lengthy Post Script)
Dirt Biking with me started at age 9, when a neighboring cousin was given a brand new ‘79 Honda XR80. He lived a mile or so down the road, and I’d frequently visit to watch him ride around his parent’s farm; wherein being flatly denied permission to ride myself, I’d run after him on foot, imitating the engine noises, complete with the bad gear-changes of his riding. Or I’d give chase on my banana-seated bicycle for a few yards until he blithely sped away, frequently leaving me pedaling though a cloud of dust and after his tire tracks for what seemed like a long time…and probably was!

Over that winter I proceeded to nag my dad to get me one, so as to ride with him, and to my ineffable joy, he finally yielded to my request and took me to town the following spring to “The Wheeler”, put down eight hundred 1980 Canadian dollars, signed a paper or two, and made the biggest dream of my childhood a confirmed fact! Then with great pride (and fresh knobbies making that curious popping noise they do on a showroom floor) I wheeled the big, shiny, red, machine awkwardly out the dealership door. I was now the proud owner of an immaculate brand-new 1980 Honda XR80! What a lucky boy!

Soon thereafter I joined my older cousin in his biking exploits of trampling the alfalfa, chasing wayward milk cows, making “jumps” out of milk crates and plywood, and riding up forestry roads in the neighboring hills ‘till dark, or down to our “reserve tanks.”

However, my cousin’s bike at this point, following a year’s neglect, unsheltered storage, and its borrowing by unscrupulous older brothers, was somewhat the worse for wear; his pegs were loose and stripped from the cases, bars lop-sided from too many drops, forks bent, seat ripped, grips torn, underslung muffler cracked, shifter bent, brake lever half broken off and, but for the inner rear fender, pretty much all of the plastic had ether ripped off, cracked (off) or simply fallen off. It also started leaking dirty oil from the cylinder after one of the older brothers put car oil in the engine.

It was so bent out of shape that by that point it was like riding an orange day-old pretzel.

My bike, by contrast, with clean fender undersides, factory warning stickers still in place, its red metal tank lovingly turtle-waxed and tires still sporting their sprue, was now the current grail of grade 6 admiration, and I reveled in the unaccustomed attention from my classmates when I rode it (illegally) down to the school field to show it off at lunchtime! I was officially now the cat’s meow, and former bullies who used to wash my face with snow or chase me up trees, were now “good buddies”! So with the shoe now on the other foot, and the bloom of his machine now faded, I gloated in my older cousin’s muted envy! Now for once, he was the one pedaling the banana seat!-ha ha!

My mom, perhaps as a ploy to get me reading, bought me a subscription to D.B. as a birthday present! My first copy (Nov.‘81) arrived in the mail shortly after the snows had come, and with the bike now retired to the basement for the winter, and the snowbanks rising to eye-level, I took to reading each copy from cover to cover and eagerly awaited its monthly delivery. For an 11-year-old boy stuck in the snowy wastes of rural B.C. over the winter with a maximum of two TV channels in fair weather, the mag was a lifeline to the exciting, exotic world of sunny, palm-treed California, its motocross racing and desert runs, plus the muddy eastern enduros and European events. I would hole-up in my bedroom and pore over each issue’s tests, “shootouts” and editorials; immersing myself in the Dirt Bike firmament, while The Love Boat, M.A.S.H or Three’s Company continued to occupy the living room!

Some years later, in my mid-teens, I picked up a guitar, and the sound of small-bore four-strokes with loose mufflers gave way to that of Led Zeppelin and AC/DC! So by the spring of ‘84 the little Honda of mine that was once my turtle waxed pride and joy was sold for $375 to fund rock albums and a set of tower speakers! It was clearly the end of an era.

By that point, however, my bike, too, had become a sorry sight, as it now had its share of bent bars, forks and footpegs, along with a broken steering stop, the inevitable loss of most plastic, a dent in its metal tank, a drilled airbox (done following a D.B. article!) and a cough at high rpm. Much of the damage however was done in lending it to “idiot” friends; two of whom ended up in plaster! But how I now long to find that old bike, or that of my Cousin’s, (which also was sold), Where might they be now? Neglected and in pieces in the back of someone’s barn, their pistons serving as ashtrays? Or painted black by some miscreant kid and running ratty on pre-mix from the lawnmower? Or perhaps lovingly restored to the last nut and bolt with N.O.S. parts, plastic and reproduction decals by a serious hobbyist with a soft spot for old Hondas! Hmmm, God only knows their fate! But wherever they are, to this day, a piece of my heart remains with them!

Your email makes all of the years of writing worthwhile. In those early days, I invented something called conversational journalism. That was nothing more than writing just like you are talking to a friend. I guess we made more than a few friends going those years. Sincere thanks.–Rick Sieman.

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SUBJECT: ONE WAY TO GET A TROPHY

Rick,

Got your cactus decorated yet?

Went to this second hand store today. Overpriced crap like a board for $2, old 50-cent antique bottles for $10, that kind of crap. But, the sky cleared, the planets aligned and everything fell into place. Sitting on a shelf with other junk was a tiny, 4.5-inch tall motorcycle trophy marked “$10.” I picked it up and read: “MAMC English Trials 2nd Place 12-19-54”. Wow!

Why the “Wow!”, Rick? Well, 12-19-54 is the day I was born! What are the odds?!

I did some quick research and the MAMC is the Mid Antrim Motor Club Ltd.(now motorcycle club) It was formed by a bunch of motorcycle riders at the Royal Café on Wellington Street in Ballymena in December of 1944. The War was over, let’s form a club! I got an email in to the current president, asking if the club might still have records on who won the trophy, where and on what bike. I hope to hear from the Prez with any information. I’ll keep you updated.

Have great holidays, Rick, and I’m saddened by the passing of Brother Brown. RIP.

Easy,
David “I’ve Only Seen On Any Sunday 18 Times” Fruhling

Well, that’s one way to get a trophy.–Rick Sieman

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SHAMELESS PLUG

My new book, THE LAST RIDE, is now out. It’s fiction and starts in 1969, when an 18-year-old kid just out of high school gets a chance to ride his Yamaha 250 DT1 from Pennsylvania to Los Angeles … all off-road. His adventures are truly amazing. The book then jumps 40+ years where the same person, now in his 60s, wants to get that old Yamaha back in his possession and return it home by riding it all off-road across the country again. The book is $15 plus $2.75 for mail anywhere in the US.–Rick Sieman

For more information:
the email is: superhunky@gmail.com
Paypal address: superhunky@gmail.com
Website: www.superhunky.com

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